98+ Ranger Stockfloor BD Question

why does everyone say to swap over. I see the advantages, but i mean is it really worth all the extra work and money. If you had horrible camber problems, couldn't you raise the control arms a little. Not to mention the fact that his camber will be the same with his bd as it is right now.

The only other advantage i could see with the new clip is like you were saying about the engine crossmember not hanging down as much. In that case, why couldn't he rebuild the crossmember or lower then engine. There are numerous things that could be done that would be cheaper than buying a new clip, especially an MII.

EXACTLT WHAT MIKE SAID !!!!

I HAVE THE STOCK CLIP ON MINE WITH NO LOWERED MOTOR MY ENGINE STICKS UP ABOUT 2 INCHES PAST THE HOOD ---- I COULD HAVE DOEN THE CROSSMEMEBER AND LOWERED THE MOTOR --- INSTEAD I JUST MOLDED A HOOD SCOOP ON IT ---- A LOT LESS WORK AND ANOTHER MODIFICATION TO THE TRUCK --- BODY DROPT ON BUDGET AND STILL RUNS A DRIVES GREAT ----- DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY -- KEEP THE STOCK CLIP ---- AND EVEN IF YOU SWAP A MUSTANG 2 OR TOYO CLIP DOESNT MEAN YOUR BODY DROPT ANY LOWER ----- HELL CAMBER IS COOL AS HELL !!!!

Edited: 5/3/2006 8:34:10 AM by butter428

So in all of that, all you told me was that it's better because of the camber. I lay out now and the negative camber is pretty crazy, but it straightens out at ride height. I've had the same tires for 18,000 miles so far, and there's not one hint of them getting tore up on the inside from negative camber. If I throw 20s on there, the negative camber will be the same, because I'm getting a tire on the 20 that will be as tall as my 18" tire. Adding a bodydrop into the mix will not affect camber, because the suspension is not moving, only the body.

The engine crossmemer problem is fixed when I rebuild the frame from the firewall back.

I'm still not sold on swapping out the clip.

Originally posted by Gump1986



the mustang II or toyota suspension is a better design than the ranger control arm suspension. neither have the massive engine crossmember hanging down to get in the way. also, the ranger's spindles are extremely tall. there was a guy who lived near me with a 98+ bagged on 20s, and his camber has almost as bad as an ibeam ranger. MII/yota suspensions would work much better. the cheapest way would be to find a complete toyota frame clip from a junkyard, with steering, brakes, and and everything else. you would just have to modify it to fit your core support and motor mounts. the yota steering would be fine and the brakes have the same 5x4.5 pattern that a ranger has. you could also change out the stock arms for a set of tubular arms, which would eliminate the stock radius rods on the toyota lower control arms.

theres alot more to it than just negative camber. the ranger spindle is just too tall. a truck with a toyota clip or mustang II will have a rack and pinion style steering, a shorter spindle, and more choices for aftermarket parts. plus with a toyota clip, you can set it up to ride pounded and have good camber and toe, not just at ride height.

there are plenty of people who run 98+ suspensions that have no problems, but if you are going to go to the trouble to build a whole new frame, why not go ahead and get a better front suspension.

if its a money issue then the argument is invalid because you can find a toy front clip at a lot of junk yeards for almost nothing...m2 is expensive..the ford suspension is not very friendly to adjustable suspension...personally i would try and eliminate all camber issues. when a suspension cambers that is a sign that something wasnt engineered right. now i am not saying that ford suspension is not engineered right but it is the worst suspension to use for a air bags. toyota suspension allows for a much lower profile frame and larger wheels. making some new motor mounts isnt that hard and the stock ones can even be incorporated in. i guess the other dudes point is why go through all the trouble of a frame and not correct the problems that ford suspension has...also it will aloow u to keep a stock hood easier.

just a few ideas...i wouldnt even bd it any other way....i am bodydroppingmine just to swap out the front suspension because i cant stand the camber on my 20's i hate driving around so high just to correct the camber.

^exactly what I was trying to say. just couldn't get the words out right. you can pick up a yota clip from a junkyard for between $200-$400. running a stock hood is a plus. im running 2x3 frame rails on mine, with tubular arms that use toyota balljoints/crossshafts/spindles/brakes. not quite a toyota clip, but very similar just more fab stuff than a straight clip swap. i have seen several 98+ rangers with z frames that needed 3+ inch cowl hoods just to cover the motor. my motor mounts are dropped only 3/4" and i clear a stock explorer hood with no problems and plenty of clearance. having no camber/toe issues at ride height is nice, but having no camber/toe issues at almost any height is much better. if you get a set of arms built and setup the clip right, you should have no alignment problems at any ride height, meaning you can drive it with the front pounded really low with no adverse affects, or ride it higher when you need to turn and still have no problems. it can be done with ford suspension. but a yota clip would work so much better.

Pics pics pics....I wouldn't even think about doing something without seeing what it's supposed to look like first.

all it is is buying a stock toyota truck suspension clip from a junkyard and building a frame from the firewall back out of 2x3 tubing. from the firewall forward the truck looks just like any other stock yota.

If it helps at all, this is a picture of a Toyota clip.Don't know if that will help or not, but thats what they look like.

If you were to get one from a junk yard take everything but the motor.