Hard line /pump/tank set ups

One thing to note is that there is a chrome plated copper available from some specialty plumbing supplies, but it is even more expensive than normal copper, and the chrome can flake or crack after bending. Once you polish stainless, it stays looking good for a long time. And once it is flared and installed, it is not going anywhere. A good investment, and definately worth the time and trouble, and comparable in cost to using simple DOT hose or copper. Any extra cost above DOT hose is offset by the fact it will more than likely never leak. If it does, a simple twist of the wrench, and you are good for another few years. :cents:

Here I cant find stainless for a good price whatsoever. Its several dollars to the foot. And I can get copper relatively inexpensive through a friends company. You say it is brittle, but if mounted correctly would there be any problems with running it?

Dependin on the fitting, the stainless line could need flaring. most fitting that have a "sleeve" or "collar" that slides over the tubing and then a the other section of the fitting is tightened down over the collar, to creat a compresson fit, those ones WILL deffinentally need to be flared, the fitting will specify the angle of the flare also, usually a 37 deg. is most common for automotive type use. all parker fittings are like this, and will need flared. Also, do not use copper fittings with stainless lines, the reason is that the copper is so soft and weak, it cant even crimp or begin to compress the stainless into a secure and sealed fitting. it will plain and simply not work down the road.

swagelok fittings DO NOT need flared, they are designed to be used and trusted to their rating PSI without being flared.


also, search for "stainless tubing" on ebay, there is tooons of it. use something around .049 wall, that still easy to bend, but can handle 8000psi. Its best not to skimp on the main veins of your setup, these are the parts that will give you trouble free useage in the future. its worth it.

a common mistake is to use normal stainless tubing, it must be the seamless type, other wise the seam will split and leak after bending. Here in Texas 3/8 is around 1.15 a foot for seamless 20000 psi stainless, 1/2 runs a little more. I agree with Choppedmazda, swagelock is the shiz. I use either Parker or Eaton 37 degreee JIC thread fittings, with the nut and crush sleeve for flaring. Works great, and I haven't had one leak yet, whether I installed it on air or juice.

Originally posted by blazedbowtie82



Here I cant find stainless for a good price whatsoever. Its several dollars to the foot. And I can get copper relatively inexpensive through a friends company. You say it is brittle, but if mounted correctly would there be any problems with running it?

That is true for the most part, but over time it will oxydize and turn green. Extensive uses primarily copper, and I believe that they have for years. Very little if any trouble, I am sure. I guess for me it comes down to the fact stainless is so much cheaper here than copper, not to mention it looks good for years to come. Seth, you might talk to the plumbing supply near you and investigate the chrome plated copper, some of the nicer sinks and plumbing are being installed with it, where the line is visible. I don't believe it is bulletproof, but it will look better than regular copper, and it is close to the same price. Not sure about your area, but it is worth looking into.

damnit i knew i forgot something......

SEAMLESS TUBING! its a must, every time no matter ware your using it at in your system.

Edited: 7/30/2006 1:27:48 PM by waylowwhitey

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/stainless-3-8-hard-line-for-fuel-air-ride-tubing-hotrod_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQihZ011QQitemZ320010901136QQrdZ1just a thought, would be worth it if you are running 3/8, couldn't tell if it was seamless, might not be. Don't know how they could roll it like that if it was the wall thick. I use

idk, something seems off about that auction, they shouldnt beable to just roll that .049 wall up like that, i mean its possible to roll it up like that, but it would need to be done with a tube bender and some muscle.

i know i just cant go out and roll up my 10ft legnths of .049 wall 3/8 tubing.... im probably just a puss tho lol

I agree, the line I use is pretty beefy. I normally use my trick tools JD2 bender to bend it. the ebay auction was just a suggestion, get the idea out there.