suicide doors using jeep hindges

I used the wagoneer ones on my 85 dime and they work good if you do it right. Mine was a convertible too so I thought my back wall would flex but it didn't. I had to cut a pocket into my door for the hinge to fit correctly and I cut the holes in the back pillar post for the hinges. Then I made a piece of 1/8 or 3/16 flat stock that fit behind the hinges and bolted both hinges through the pillar and flat stock. I also bolted them through the back of the cab too. On the door side I reinforced it with another plate that connected the 2 hinges. The door did flex some but not too bad. These hinges take up more room in the jamb then others so I didn't have mine vertically the same so when the door was open all the way it would get closer to the ground then when it was 1/4 of the way open. It didn't sag just didn't swing right. I never really finished them before I lost interest in the truck so my gaps and everything weren't perfect. If I were you I would get the weld in ones. If you want an easy way to do it, take it to someone that has the ability to do it right. They do not look as good as the weld in ones either nor do they have stops in them.

IM vboyfl he used the wagooner hinges on his s10 back in 88 w/o any problems......
I know Jake use then same hinges on tymsvrd's s10 too w/o any problems....

Edited: 9/4/2006 8:27:16 PM by suckafree

well there really is no such thing as a bolt in suicide door kit. Its all fabrication, cutting and welding. If there was just a bolt in it would sag really bad. As for not wanting to see the bolt coming out the back, there are many solutions. That is the way I used to do it. The back of the hinges play a big roll in preventing door sag, which is why you see really saggy suicide doors is they didnt do nothing to the back of the hinges. Anyways here is how the back of them should be done.Reinforce the back of the cab behind the hinges with pretty much any kind of metal....16 gauge sheet will even work. Weld a bolt or piece of threaded rod to the sheetmetal. Weld brackets to the hinges with a hole drilled into them so the bolt you welded to the back of the cab can slide through.Bolt the back of your hinges with brackets to that.You can also bolt the hinges to the backside of the door jamb so you do not see the big tabs on them, however that restricts how much of an angle your door will open.And on the topic of restricting, it is always a good idea to put a limiter strap on the door....sometimes the door and cab do not agree on a full 90 degree swing.Originally posted by superstan



How can i get ahold of the guy used the bolt on kit. also if i do them like in that one article how do u smooth them out on the back of the cab so there is no bolt sticking out.

Originally posted by BK2LIFE

looks like he did a good job, what you cant see is if he welded braces or anyting on the inside.

on mine i welded bracing to the back of the hinges and tied it all into the back cab wall as well.. no sag and theyve been done for almost 2 years now

i appericate the help guys. i know a guy that would do one for for 300 dollars is that a good deal. he makes the hindges his self. there aint that many minis here only a few but none no suicide doors. i wnat them but i have a 4 wheel drive and it would be really different. just dont know when i get the money to do it.

ive been told to get them done is around $1000 a door thants finished (bodyworked and painted)... but that might be high..

$300 a door would be good HOWEVER i would check out his work inside and out.. ask to see a set hes done already and see how they close, line up etc.. i firmly believe you get what you pay for so , id just check out all the welds craftsmanship etc....

werd, I know alot of people charge 1500/door, I charge 1-1500 both doors pending on if a kit is included, jeep hinges, or if Im getting the stuff. Turnaround of about a week a door.

300 sounds like he is doing it for the fun of it or its his first time doing it....can cost around that just in materials.