tie rod flip

Man I feel sorry for you haha. What a project. I hope to see it dragging next year, I'll have to bring my buick down.

Good luck!

c'mon can somebody give me some suggestions/help.
it neeeeeds to be lower!!!!!

Edited: 9/29/2006 10:58:39 AM by JasonZ

Stock, your tierod end and your lower control arm pivot about similar spaced points. As your suspension compresses, both are close in length, and pivots are close to same distance from one another (inner and outer -- a parallelogram of sorts) but by moving the tierod end, you are effectively causing the tierod end to pivot in an arc different from the lower control arm. This will cause severe bumpsteer, as I'm sure you've found out. The way to eliminate, is going to be moving, flipping, etc. your ball joint to regain the factory spacing. Both tie rod and lower need to be phased with in reason to prevent this. So if you moved your tie rod pivot down and inch by flipping it, the balljoint will have to follow suit.

Originally posted by JasonZ



Edited: 9/29/2006 10:58:39 AM by JasonZ

Stock, your tierod end and your lower control arm pivot about similar spaced points. As your suspension compresses, both are close in length, and pivots are close to same distance from one another (inner and outer -- a parallelogram of sorts) but by moving the tierod end, you are effectively causing the tierod end to pivot in an arc different from the lower control arm. This will cause severe bumpsteer, as I'm sure you've found out. The way to eliminate, is going to be moving, flipping, etc. your ball joint to regain the factory spacing. Both tie rod and lower need to be phased with in reason to prevent this. So if you moved your tie rod pivot down and inch by flipping it, the balljoint will have to follow suit.

this is what i realized.but my lower ball joint is at an angle and cant be flipped?(see 1st pic.)can i cut and weld the spindle to get a better angle? can you weld cast spindles?

Looking at those pics.... what the hell is that big spacer block under the balljoint? Can you remove that and possible mount the balljoint through the same bolt holes but BENEATH the control arm? You might be in business then.

you're right that flipping your ball joint will get you closer to stock geometry, it probably won't be perfect still, but better.

and these guys are right, you probably should take the spindle off and have it bored out and put a sleeve in it to fit the tierod end properly, i did it like you did and one side has already worn itself loose and that was with a fairly good fit and bushings on the top to keep it still... i'll be pulling them off o do it right in a month or so here... big fun!

Originally posted by JasonZ



Looking at those pics.... what the hell is that big spacer block under the balljoint? Can you remove that and possible mount the balljoint through the same bolt holes but BENEATH the control arm? You might be in business then.

i put that ball joint block there to reduce the angle on the lower arm, and not bind the ball joint.my prob is flipping the lower ball joint. If i can find a way to flip it i will remove the block and bolt it from the bottom (easy part), but because of the angle the spindle mount, i cant. if you look at the lower mount is at a 45deg angle, and cant be flipped cause it will hit the brake.can i cut & weld the spindle to get a better angle and not hit the brake disk?

You have obviously found the problem, but the cure is the issue.

I can build you custom spindles, but I do not suggest welding to them yourself. It can be done, but you really need to understand what's going on when you weld to cast.

Don't "Z" the tie rod. There is way to much stress on them to design in your very own weak-link.

You can heat and twist the steering arm to help with angle, but make sure to gusset the link afterward.

Originally posted by BioMax



You have obviously found the problem, but the cure is the issue.

I can build you custom spindles, but I do not suggest welding to them yourself. It can be done, but you really need to understand what's going on when you weld to cast.

Don't "Z" the tie rod. There is way to much stress on them to design in your very own weak-link.

You can heat and twist the steering arm to help with angle, but make sure to gusset the link afterward.

thanks but i wouldnt weld the spindle myself, i have a buddy who is a professional welder who handles the more technical welds for me and he said welding cast can be tricky.

do you think i could heat up the lower ball joint arm and bend it up to a straighter angle? or will heating them make them weak?

then i can flip both the tie rod and ball joint without hiting the brake disk (and yes i will bore out and shim them)

If you have a friend that really knows what he is doing, you could certainly do that. Make sure you gusset the area that you bend. I looks like there is a good spot to do that to on each side of the balljoint.