Painting

if any 1 needs a paint job hit me up i done copsluvmytruk aka brad blairs yota i re done the body work and the paint even on the dash and consol... im looking for some work i will paint with dupont or house of kolor and some ppg just message me on here or just give me a call at 1-812-697-0127 or 1-812-346-5705 my name is josh if i dont answer leave a message and a name and number thanks josh

books and advice from others can be a good start but honestly the only way to really learn is to pick up a gun and go at it and find out what works best for you...as far as paint and materials..there are ways here and there to save money but for the most part you get what you pay for..i spray ppg global on a daily basis and wouldnt use anything else on my own cars unless it was something i wasnt totally picky on then id maybe use some cheaper base or clear...ive sprayed sikkens and didnt really like it and sprayed some nason and HATED it...sprays like sand....and just dosent look that great i didnt think

anyone can spray, thats the easy part, 90 % of a good looking paint job is preperation i e bodywork/panel fitment,tapeing and cleanliness.

i've heard great things about the colormatch in ppg's new shop line compared to the old omni line. from what i've been told though the clear just has a new label and all of the binders, etc. are the same.

for concept (dbc base and 2021 clear) line materieals however, you'll be looking at roughly 300-400 for just the basecoat, clearcoat, reducers and hardeners. figure and extra 50-100 for primer and a lot more if you can't get any kind of shop discount from your jobber.

then add in sandpaper, tape, masking paper, any necessary filler, electricity, and waste disposal (unless you just do the bonfire thing like me) and you will see how much you are looking at just in materials.

quality shop time around here is roughly 50 an hour for paint labor, about 40 for bodywork, and 22/hr across the board for materials.

we have really good luck with the global line as far as colormatch goes. i dont have alot of experience with the older systems but im sure that the clears we are using are not the same as the others..they each have there own catalyst and only share the same reducers..we use 894 high solids..8150 performance clear and 8101 fast clear...the 894 is awesome for a showy paint job it lays out really flat and has a high build for buring lines and graphics...i prefer the 8150 for production because its fast and has the right texture to it ..but you can get it to lay nice and flat as well if you wanna

I'm no expert, but from my body shop experiences you definetely have to pay to play. I've tried to save money on previous paint jobs but it generally ends up looking like crap. If it didn't look like crap, the service was abosolutely terrible. In a few cases, I had to wait so long in order to save a buck I just ended up taking it somewhere else. In my opinion if somebody has no experience they should get some quotes and get the best possible paint job by a reputabale shop in you area that you can afford. I think that paint and body takes years of experience and practice to get good. I believe it takes incredible talent. All the best painters and body men in my area have being doing it for years. It doesn't happen over night and it is definetely not easy. If you want show or magazine quality let someone who knows what they are doing handle it.

You get what you pay for pretty much is the best way to look at it for paying someone to do the body and paint work. But you save so much money if you can do it all your self and a friend.