best grit of sandpaper for bare metal?

^^^^^^^^^^you can paint over old paint, Body shops do it all the time and ive never heard of them failing. I would never do it to a aftermarket paint job because who knows how he prepped the truck. if its a stock paint job, your good to go.

doing it wrong will cost you more in the long run. you can paint over old paint but when the mil thickness is too high the paint will crack and flake off. 3 is alot of layers and i would strip it all off and start over.

sounds like a topic with alot of experts

just dont go rougher than 80 tho

yeah i read a craig fraiser book once

yeah cause craig fraser is the best painter in the world *rolls eyes*. you can do stuff that will work, but if you want to be a perfectionist, than take it all off down to baremetal.

I usually use 80 on an agressive orbital pattern DA and then finish out with 180 when down to bare metal. Then Just wipe it down mask it off shoot some etch prime on it the primer surfacer. Chemical stripper is alright but it makes a mess and usually stinks. If you can start out with a razor blade scraper to take off some layers so you can save some $ on sandpaper.

Edited: 11/11/2006 9:05:51 PM by Lo94S-10

Originally posted by FreaksofReno



Originally posted by jonesn



chemical strip50 grit roloc etch prime-one like coat epoxy primerany body work you need to dourathane high build primer for block sandingthen paint

Wasting money and material with an epoxy primer. Also, all of your body work should be on bare metal and not on top of existing paint that may have a chance to fail sometime in the future. Then etch the bare metal that is left, Prime everything, let the primer FULLY dry, block it, paint it.





You can do filler work over/on top of PPG DP 50 epoxy. Not the newer DPLF, but the stuff that isn't lead free. Also once you're done with your initial/final blocking and final sanding of the primer, I'd definitley use a sealer or a primer sealer, which I think you can use DP (Or DPLF) 50 epoxy for as well, (Depending on how you mix it).

80 grit will work great and then i would go a little finer grit after that just to smooth it out

Originally posted by Lo94S-10



Edited: 11/11/2006 9:05:51 PM by Lo94S-10

Originally posted by FreaksofReno



Originally posted by jonesn



chemical strip50 grit roloc etch prime-one like coat epoxy primerany body work you need to dourathane high build primer for block sandingthen paint

Wasting money and material with an epoxy primer. Also, all of your body work should be on bare metal and not on top of existing paint that may have a chance to fail sometime in the future. Then etch the bare metal that is left, Prime everything, let the primer FULLY dry, block it, paint it.





You can do filler work over/on top of PPG DP 50 epoxy. Not the newer DPLF, but the stuff that isn't lead free. Also once you're done with your initial/final blocking and final sanding of the primer, I'd definitley use a sealer or a primer sealer, which I think you can use DP (Or DPLF) 50 epoxy for as well, (Depending on how you mix it).

not true you can do it over the dplf and you dont want to use dp as primer if you have never had to sand it it sands like rubber.

what I did on my truck was mud hog with 36 grit then did my metal work roughed the body work out then dp it then spray bondo/ polyester high build primer then ncp271 a high build primer and thats were it sits.