BioMax's 4-link Article

Originally posted by mitsupc



Off subject...but Max, does vehicle weight affect how much caster/camber should be built into a front end?

Camber is used mostly for handling. The Chevelle in my profile has (from half travel) 1 deg of camber per inch of travel. I will only use about 1/2 deg on a bagged vehicle. The camber gain counteracts the chassis roll in the opposite direction trying to create positive camber. On a lighter vehicle where the vehicle won't lean as hard wont need as much camber gain. There is a lot more to it than that, but lets leave it at that for starters.

Caster on the other hand is a lot tougher to explain. I use spindle inclination to determine the amount of caster I build into my front suspensions as little as 3 deg and as much as 15 deg. And from here it is a whole bunch more writing. Lets say for now that, yes the weight of a vehicle does affect the caster. The more caster you have the harder it is to leave center, thus the more it wants to return to center.

Edited: 1/6/2007 11:19:56 PM by Whitejones

This is a little off subject would a mumford linkage work with bagged truck or would there be too much axle travel? And what benefits would there be if any using this over a Watts link?

bio See I have a 89 silverado and i got i to the frame stockflooring it and im to the point where im build building my 4 link and i tought i knew how to set the 4 link up but know im reading all this i want it to be right ( i put 4 links on before but i always welded axle to frame before i took the leaf spings off then installed links then cut the axle loose im guess thats the wrong way ?) I understand the degrees on the drive shaft at ride height , but what about the about the bars should they be at a certain degree at ride height thats where im lost thanks

Originally posted by Whitejones



Edited: 1/6/2007 11:19:56 PM by Whitejones

This is a little off subject would a mumford linkage work with bagged truck or would there be too much axle travel? And what benefits would there be if any using this over a Watts link?



The Mumford link was designed to lower the roll-center while still having the benefits of a watts link. It could be used if travel was kept to a minimum (8" or so.) And/or I'm sure the links could be made longer to squeeze more travel out of it.

Originally posted by bagged2200



bio See I have a 89 silverado and i got i to the frame stockflooring it and im to the point where im build building my 4 link and i tought i knew how to set the 4 link up but know im reading all this i want it to be right ( i put 4 links on before but i always welded axle to frame before i took the leaf spings off then installed links then cut the axle loose im guess thats the wrong way ?) I understand the degrees on the drive shaft at ride height , but what about the about the bars should they be at a certain degree at ride height thats where im lost thanks

I try to keep things close to parallel to the ground at half travel. I posted once in a different thread about the bars being parallel to the ground at ride height, but in sticking to an i.c. not all of the bars can be parallel to the ground. As long as the i.c. is somewhere out towards the grille and the bars are parallel(ish) to the ground at ride height, the system should work really well. If you are forced to use short bars you will need to do a little more figuring, but just to stay safe.

cool thanks alot man i think i got it all now i post sum pictures when i get it all together

Maybe their should just be an "ask max" forum. haha

i agree

BioMax what you think about this diagram can you find instant center on something like this? Would this be a good picture to go by setting up bars ? Just trying to soak up all the info i can sorry asking so much but your the man !!!!