Using a carrier bearing, you can place the driveline and the 4-link within the i.c. you choose and have little or no u-joint angle probs or drive line plunge.
Ok I think Im starting to understand this I.C. stuff but a pic of that would def. help me understand that.... bcuz my truck has a carrier bearing & im setting the 4 link up now....... thanx ahead of time
Using a carrier bearing, you can place the driveline and the 4-link within the i.c. you choose and have little or no u-joint angle probs or drive line plunge.
Ok I think Im starting to understand this I.C. stuff but a pic of that would def. help me understand that.... bcuz my truck has a carrier bearing & im setting the 4 link up now....... thanx ahead of time
There is no reason that you would need to concern yourself with that unless you really wanted to.
But here you go any way...
If you were to address the 4-link like you would an a-arm set up the driveshaft would be calculated the same way you would figure the steering. Line AB being your top bars and CD being your lower bars, line EF is the actual driveshaft position (this is where the difference is, the drvive shaft would be closer to the i.c. instead of further) but line XZ is the calculated points. The major difference is that you need to figure it all up at the same time, where as the steering can be figured later on. Keep in mind that the driveshaft is calculated from its u-joints.
so it does really matter where the top bars are aslong as the i.c is not to close to the rear end and as for the bottom bars would they play a role thats important length wise?
The length of the bars (upper and lower) change the way the suspension acts as it cycles. If the uppers bars are shorter, as the suspension goes into bump (lower) the i.c. will move slightly down and closer to the rearend and in droop (higher) the i.c. will move further from the rearend and at some point end up behind the vehicle. Where if the lower bars are shorter the i.c. will move down a lot and further from the rearend, in bump and closer in droop. These changes will effect the dynaic actions of the rearend, but you would really need to be a good builder and driver to understand what changes are made. But for most pourposes a shorter upper or lower bar is not any concern as long as the i.c. and pinion are kept in check.
Im trying my hardest to understand this stuff do you think you have or can find photo of a 4 link installed on a truck that that the bars are positioned right ? or is that hard to do cause there so many ways to do it. Im going to figure this out its driving me crazy i done looked up all kinds sites is there a good book out there ? Oh yea awhile back you Said you had a blade for the chop saw that was bad ass did you ever get the name what kind? thanks sorry for asking so many quesitons
Im trying my hardest to understand this stuff do you think you have or can find photo of a 4 link installed on a truck that that the bars are positioned right ? or is that hard to do cause there so many ways to do it. Im going to figure this out its driving me crazy i done looked up all kinds sites is there a good book out there ? Oh yea awhile back you Said you had a blade for the chop saw that was bad ass did you ever get the name what kind? thanks sorry for asking so many quesitons