BADHABITMAN
+1y
That is a very nice set-up. However not very strong. Unless you are sending that beautiful new bolt out for hardening it is weeker than the stock ball joint you are replacing. Even hardening only matches the strength of the ball joint. The best thing to do is to drill out the taper in the spindle and run a large grade 8 bolt through it. Bullet proof.
jeebus @ mmw
+1y
Edited: 3/8/2007 3:26:31 PM by Chopped Mazda
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:39:23 AM by Chopped Mazda
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:37:33 AM by Chopped Mazda
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:30:53 AM by Chopped Mazda
Sorry should have elaborated on the shaft.
The one in the picture above is just from standard mild steel, and was made just for basic testing purposes, to see how everything would work out. but as soon as i get my personal set of arms back from chrome i will post a pic of the chromoly shafts.
The problem is, most customers buying arms are not interested in drilling out their spindles to accept a bolt, they want them to just drop in, and not have to fuck with stuff like that. The machined shaft is the best alternative.
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:39:23 AM by Chopped Mazda
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:37:33 AM by Chopped Mazda
Edited: 3/4/2007 11:30:53 AM by Chopped Mazda
Sorry should have elaborated on the shaft.
The one in the picture above is just from standard mild steel, and was made just for basic testing purposes, to see how everything would work out. but as soon as i get my personal set of arms back from chrome i will post a pic of the chromoly shafts.
The problem is, most customers buying arms are not interested in drilling out their spindles to accept a bolt, they want them to just drop in, and not have to fuck with stuff like that. The machined shaft is the best alternative.
BioMax
+1y
Edited: 3/4/2007 2:10:18 PM by BioMax
You guys have the right idea about using strong bolts for the upper ball-joint/uni-ball, but the idea of sending out your bolt and having it hardened is not quite on track and grade 9 bolts are tough to find. The F-911 bolt that most call a grade 9 bolt is not quite so. It is a strong bolt that is superior to a standard grade 8 or 9 bolt, but still isn't the best bolt for this application. AN bolts would be your best choice for a high stress application.
The AN bolt is a military spec bolt that is ordered by the "grip length" (the unthreaded portion of the bolt) and only has enough thread for a nut and a washer. They are almost always fine thread and can be ordered with or without a drilled head and/or thread to be secured with wire and/or cotter pin. The standard AN bolt would be considered grade 8, but is an actual spec bolt that has to folow strict standards, where your standard grade 8 and F-911 is only an industrial part.
With that being said, the interface between the misalignment and the spindle should be tight so that there is as little movement as possible, even if the bolt is loose. The tapered hole makes using a smaller bolt (1/2" or even 5/8") difficult. Sence the taper will be larger, at the mating surface, than the bolt/misalignment being used there will be way too much movement allowed. This will just about guarantee breakage at some point. What should be done in this situation is to drill the spindle out oversized and weld in a sleeve with the right size hole. Or to weld the lower misalignment spacer to the spindle (see pic.) This is the way that I prefer to do it because the bolt is is only loaded in tension (the strongest way to load a bolt.) Of course welding to cast is tricky so the bushing option would probably be best for most of you.
You guys have the right idea about using strong bolts for the upper ball-joint/uni-ball, but the idea of sending out your bolt and having it hardened is not quite on track and grade 9 bolts are tough to find. The F-911 bolt that most call a grade 9 bolt is not quite so. It is a strong bolt that is superior to a standard grade 8 or 9 bolt, but still isn't the best bolt for this application. AN bolts would be your best choice for a high stress application.
The AN bolt is a military spec bolt that is ordered by the "grip length" (the unthreaded portion of the bolt) and only has enough thread for a nut and a washer. They are almost always fine thread and can be ordered with or without a drilled head and/or thread to be secured with wire and/or cotter pin. The standard AN bolt would be considered grade 8, but is an actual spec bolt that has to folow strict standards, where your standard grade 8 and F-911 is only an industrial part.
With that being said, the interface between the misalignment and the spindle should be tight so that there is as little movement as possible, even if the bolt is loose. The tapered hole makes using a smaller bolt (1/2" or even 5/8") difficult. Sence the taper will be larger, at the mating surface, than the bolt/misalignment being used there will be way too much movement allowed. This will just about guarantee breakage at some point. What should be done in this situation is to drill the spindle out oversized and weld in a sleeve with the right size hole. Or to weld the lower misalignment spacer to the spindle (see pic.) This is the way that I prefer to do it because the bolt is is only loaded in tension (the strongest way to load a bolt.) Of course welding to cast is tricky so the bushing option would probably be best for most of you.
FlawlessFab
+1y
bio max good point made....my question is on your spindle pictured opposite of the misalignment that is welded on is that the sleeve you welded in also?...i drilled my spindles out but drilled it with extremely tight tolerances...to minimize play....got a website to find these bolts you talk of....interested?
BioMax
+1y
No, that is just a nut. It made my job easier.
You can get AN bolts from Aircraft Spruce. I think every fabricator should have an Aircraft Spruce catalog, they cary everything.
You can get AN bolts from Aircraft Spruce. I think every fabricator should have an Aircraft Spruce catalog, they cary everything.
dragthatbitch
+1y
I order stuff from them for work all the time, lots of crazy stuff you cant find any where else.