Carb Troubles

Originally posted by ascension11



At 1psi you reduce volume too much. Do you have a diagram for the carb your running?

Theres one in my manual, and one that came with the rebuild kit. I can take a picture of both of them if you want.

Yeah, get me those. And try upping the psi to about 4-5. See if that helps. You may have to adjust your timing accordingly.

I don't currently have a timing light, I'd have to borrow one again. I'll take pictures of the diagrams. Its going to have to wait about an hour though, I have to go pick up my little brother right now.

Aight. Just adjust the timing by ear. Adjust the fuel pressure to 4 or 5 psi, and then adjust the timing advanced or retarded based on the idle. It'll probably idle really high once you adjust it up. Retard the timing till it sounds really weak, and then advance it just a bit. Enough that it runs smooth. When your on the road, if it shudders around 3000+ rpm's, it's probably too retarded. Too advanced and it will have a really rough low end. Like a lack of power.

Seth, call this guy, the Yodaman,(Larry), he's in Santa Rosa,he knows Toyota's better than anyone. Helped me with a problem!

In the one picture of your engine it looks like the line off of the top of the fuel pump is running to the carb. That should be your return, the line closest to the valve cover is your supply to the carb. If you are running the stock carb and fuel pump I would ditch the pressure regulator, it is just adding more confusion into your problem and there is no need for it. Fuel pressure regulators are usually run on the return line!

To adjust you fuel mixture, turn the mixture screw in until it idles rough, then back it out about 1/2 turn.

Checking your timing is critical! Your idle speed will likley need to be around 700-800 rpm for your emissions test? Adjust your idle speed after you get your timing correct, then recheck timing. Be sure to check your total timing, this includes your base timing with vacuum advance disconnected at specified idle speed, then rev it up to 3000 rpm, make sure your centrifical advance is working. Then reconnect your vacuum advance line and rev it up again to see even more advance, this tells you how much vacuum advance you have.

Centrifical advance should be about 12-15 degrees. Vacuum advance should be about 10 degrees.

Double check you firing order as well, make sure all of the spark plug wires are in the correct spot.

Originally posted by TOYBOY89



In the one picture of your engine it looks like the line off of the top of the fuel pump is running to the carb. That should be your return, the line closest to the valve cover is your supply to the carb. If you are running the stock carb and fuel pump I would ditch the pressure regulator, it is just adding more confusion into your problem and there is no need for it. Fuel pressure regulators are usually run on the return line!

The line on the top of the pump is my return. The line that exits closest to the valve cover, that is larger than the other two is the line going to the carb.

The firing order is correct. The truck ran great before.

i had similar issues with the carb on my max....i said f*ck it and got a weber....best money i ever spent.....with a truck of your caliber what is keepin you from gettin a weber for it.....you wont be dissapointed....i would reccomend sayin f*ck the problems and get a weber...just my thoughts

i do believe the great state of california is stopping him from getting a weber