Few questions for my bagged and bodydropped mazda

I see alot of ppl putting there CD/MP3 Deck in theyre dash where theyre little storage spot was, i tried doing this myself but noticed it will not fit do to the air ducting for the AC/Heater any one have any adivce how to do this??

also I see alot of ppl running the 2000-2007 17" caddy rims but also noticed no on is running the 18" 08 rims?? will the 08's not fit? will the 07's bolt right up wit no mods or what??

any help would be great!!

both the 17's and 18's have to be bored out...to fit the hub

The only way to flush in the cd/mp3 player in the dash is to remove the ducting or else the cd player is to deep to mount in there. I removed all of the AC and heat components. I have seen alot of people put there cd/mp3 player in there dash and keep the ac and heat but the cd player usually sticks out and doesnt look "factory"

And as Tom said above no caddy rim will directly bolt up to a mazda unless you have a machine shop bore out the center hole larger which will cost you around $25/rim guessing? I'm not 100% sure because i got it done free. Also what I have seen done but would highly not suggest is to grind down the tab on the axle which is very unsafe! If you have any other questions just ask!

thanks for the info guys! appreciate it,

new to the forum and just noticed a thread that stated a 2.2 motor will not fit in a 2.6? I bought my b2600i 2wd bagged and body dropped 3 inches with no motor, can find tons of 2.2l motors locally with low km's but now am kinda screwed if a 2.2l will not fit, is this 100% true??

is there any websites or any people who have sucessfully done a 350 small block engine swap willing to give up some info? i have access to a few 350 small blocks along with turbo350/400 trannys and cant see it being to hard to just get the tranny mounted then to find a way to fab up new motor mounts.. what did you guys use for shifters??

thanks

I put a small block in my mazda. Takes quite a bit of work but it can be done. a few things I are listed below. I hope this helps you some. Due to my motor placement, I had to modify the frt lower crossmember. I have also heard of people modifying the pans, but I wanted to be able to run a stock style pan in case I ever needed to replace it. I had to find a radiator that would work. I went with an older style camaro radiator. I believe it was a 68. My lower radiator hose needed to be real short and had a tight bend. I ended up going w/the cool flex hoses. The ones that are stainless and look chrome. Cost a lil extra but made the install easier on the hoses. The exhaust was another big issue and probably the hardest to figure out as I swapped it back in the 90s when not much was available. I ended up going w/a set of LT1 style headers w/had the emission stuff sealed off. Didn't even have to notch the firewall, frame or interfere w/any of the strg/susp components. Only other thing I can really remember running into is that you will need to get your driveshaft modified to work w/the Turbo. As far as a shifter, I went w/a ratchet style shifter from B&M. Lokar was a big help on things like dipsticks and tubes and carb hookup accessories. Can't remember much else right off hand, but if you have any other questions on the install as it comes along, don't hesitate to pm me and ask. Again, I hope this helps some.

Late

thanks for the info, you can buy engine hugger headers for the 350 small block which i think will fix the problem you had, what did you use for motor mounts? make them from scratch or use stock small block mounts and just modify?

is lokar a website or?? lol

Check out aftermarket 350 mounts. There are a lot out there that have link bushings on one end, so all you would have to do is weld some tabs to your frame.

The motor mounts I used on the block were off of an older corvette and the lower part on the frame was made. I believe Lokar does have a website, all you have to do is search. As far as the headers, like I said before, not much was available at the time I did the swap and if I remember correctly, the block hugger headers available at the time would require the d/s motor mount to be notched and I believe the p/s collector placement was horrible for running pipe to it. Can't remember as it has been a long time since I had to remedy the issues I had, I do remember that when I finally found the LT1 headers that I was so happy nothing had to be modified any further as more work can be frustrating at times. However, the truck will be body dropped and the motor will be pushed back some on the frame next time it comes out so now all the things I ran into at the time will be completely different issues this time around. Oh well, its all in the love of building something you like.

Seth are you able to post a link to the type of motor mount you are talking about? I cant seem to find any.

I also heard something about the driveshaft having to be strengthened and also to be set at a certaint degree so it isnt out of line can anyone shed some more light on this?

thanks

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6140,,_Polished-Stainless-Steel-Motor-Mounts.html?itemNo=motor%20mount

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1904,,_Billet-SandB-Chevy-Motor-Mounts.html?itemNo=motor%20mount

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1906,,_Chevy-Weld-In-Motor-Mounts.html?itemNo=motor%20mount