welding ? for ya boss...

Here is the secret to 110 welding.

1. Bevels. Bevel everything that is 3/16 or 1/4" steel.
2. torch, heat up all 1/4 steel with a torch then weld on the highest setting
3. No extension cords. If you HAVE to use one. shop around and buy the biggest baddest cord for 110. and keep the distance as short as possible.
4. Flux Core thats your best bet for the highest heat and strongest results. dont worry so much with looks with flux, but more of how strong it is. dont have to be a pretty welder. just a good grinder. Especially when playing with flux

I still wouldnt feel comfortable with doing any kind of high stress work with a 110 on a big truck though. Welding with a 110 and 220 is like night and day.

i have done some beautiful flux beads on 1/4" wall 2x2. all i had to do after the weld was wire brush it and it looked sweet. you get better penetration with flux than you do with gas. unless of course you have a nice 220 welder than you can mig all day long with great penetration. but as far as a 110 welder goes and strength, flux is better than mig.

i will be back halving with 2x4 3/16" walled tubing. i need to get my bottles for my torch so that i can heat it up. and i have a nice 4 1/2" dewalt angle grinder and a kick ass dewalt chop saw for those nice angles.

thanks for all the feedback.

ryan

what about fluxing with 220 volt? I can't really afford the gas setup after buying all my parts. Would it be safe to do the link and all with flux core?

i use a hobart 140 great macine bagged the front of my truck with it and used it to do the body workOriginally posted by slamdatruck



what about the HOBART 140? Its 110 volt too but ive seen people do framework and bodywork with them. It says welds up to 1/4 th with flux core.

Originally posted by 72bumpside



what about fluxing with 220 volt? I can't really afford the gas setup after buying all my parts. Would it be safe to do the link and all with flux core?

yes flux penetrates better than mig it is just messy. mig lays down a nice clean bead where flux leaves a lot of slag. and seeing as how you have a 220 volt, you are good right there. just get your settings right and you will be fine.

well, thats good to know i guess. i will be bagged sooner than i thought....

Get a Miller DVI. It does both, 110 and 220. It's an awesome welder for around $1100. Then you have no worries and you are flexible to weld whatever whenever.

i have had a hobart handle 135 for about 10 years. and had no problems welding frames and other structual parts. the 220 v penetrate faster but the 110 is fine. i never had any problems and used it to do stock floors up to 1/4 wall. never had any thing come back to me. 220 to me seems easier to use and the metal doesnt have to be as clean... the 110 i just hit the metal with a 4 inch steel wire wheel on a grinder and make sure the ground is clean. it should be fine. i see a lot of horrible boogered welds that hold up so if you know what your doing you should be fine...

I have a hobart handler 185 and love it, but dont forget one of the most important things that curse 110 welders . . . DUTY CYCLE

all of the name brand 110's have a 30%M duty cycle.. just like your handler 185