In's and Out's of a Mazda truck

how diffcult is it to relocate the gas tank to the rear of the truck? between the frame rails? is there any emissions shit to move around or just run new fuel lines and splice some wires for the fuel pump?

and for those who have 4linked a mazda, are you using the front leaf spring hanger mounts for the lower links? or making new ones? the leaf spring mounts look like they would drag.

and for rear bag placement, is it personal preference, from on the link, on the axle, or behind the axle? i dont know if i will mess with side to side, but if i ever go that route i dont want any binding issues.
and are bushings OK or would hiems be better?

cab plus mazda gas tanks dont fit between the rails without cutting a little out, if its carbed all you need to do is get some longer fuel line and extend the fuel gauge wires, just a few more wires for FI. dont use the front leaf hangers, they will drag stock for a lil. rear bag placement comes down to how much lift you want. i would not put them behind the axle because you lose lift on a forward 4link. IMO i like bushing more for the 4link mounts, heims are ok for panhards IMO they are also very easy to BD. you have to drag it a little to get the frame to lay flat, mainly the back sides of the front control arms cause they hang down after you lay it out, other than that the crossmembers are awesome. have fun

Originally posted by eric150



for those who have 4linked a mazda, are you using the front leaf spring hanger mounts for the lower links? or making new ones? the leaf spring mounts look like they would drag.



I used the factory leaf spring hangers but I had moved them up. All you have to do is place a jack under the spring perch and then carefully cut them from the frame. When they come free jack up the perch and weld them back in place. they basically just "sleeve" around the frame. Here is a pic...

Word to the wise. I've had plenty of mazda trucks. They very first thing you need to do is replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. After you do this just change the oil and keep a good tune up and it run forever probably.

This thread reminded me of this, I can't remember who wrote it.

how art thou balljoints flipped for dropping?
how art the masses disagreed?
While "flipping" is said, it isn't proper
relocating is the word you need
but in our nation of thine mini trucks
thy terminology is incorrect
This has been the case for years and months
as verbal fallacies are said
flipping balljoints refers not to upside-down
but merely relation to thine control arm
my first time flipping to bring my ride down
i trieth to push it so hard
until i noticed a deviation, a curse by thine mazda corp
a taper that made my actions impossible
so i opted to light thy holy torch
thy torch removeth many of thine obstacles
lord grinder doeth deeds as well
so i notched thine arm and kept dropping it
and dragging it all to hell

Originally posted by KAOSS



This thread reminded me of this, I can't remember who wrote it.

how art thou balljoints flipped for dropping?how art the masses disagreed?While "flipping" is said, it isn't properrelocating is the word you needbut in our nation of thine mini trucksthy terminology is incorrectThis has been the case for years and monthsas verbal fallacies are saidflipping balljoints refers not to upside-downbut merely relation to thine control armmy first time flipping to bring my ride downi trieth to push it so harduntil i noticed a deviation, a curse by thine mazda corpa taper that made my actions impossibleso i opted to light thy holy torchthy torch removeth many of thine obstacleslord grinder doeth deeds as wellso i notched thine arm and kept dropping itand dragging it all to hell

tomkat here on ssm wrote that, he is a brilliant man

after some reading up on the mazdabscene forum and looking over some other peoples work. i think a backhalf would be easiest for what im wanting to do.

but how do yal determine the length of your links? im not after insane amounts of lift, just enough to get over speed bumps and what not, so 4-5" of clearance is more than plenty for me under the frame.

measure measure measure tack cycle change or weld 4-5 would be fine with the bags on the axle i have 7 inch slams with a 2.5 inch bd and 18s and i get plenty of lift in the rear.