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Toyota Trucks \  Pics of 22r with weber on

Pics of 22r with weber on

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granth   +1y
Originally posted by TwistedMinis



Didn't it come with instructions? Mine where pretty helpful.

And it should idle around 800 RPM or so.

it does, but i dont speak carb instructions ohwell.....thanks for the help seth, hopefully i can get it kinda figured out tomorrow.
standardbyker88   +1y
i can give you a good rundown in a checklist style if you want some more help with getting it goin right. i had trouble with mine, but its good now.
granth   +1y
Edited: 7/9/2008 10:07:33 AM by 72bumpside

okay wtf is goin on here

i get in the truck to try and take it around the block. my brakes are STIFFFFFFF and the ONLY thing i took off of the thing that runs to the booster is the vac line that runs up to the fender, theres a little mount with an electrical plug and 2 vac lines. is that not supposed to be removed?

i dont know why it's doing that, and i dont know why the throttle won't come back all the way. it's like its getting stopped by something. I undid the linkage they tell u to put on, and then i tightened it back hand tight and a half turn (as seth told me to do) so i don't think it's in a bind.....maybe it's upside down

also, its squealing real bad. is it just the carb or what? maybe im missing one thing. i sprayed everything down with pb blaster thinkin maybe it would act like wd40 does and kill the motor if theres a vac leak. no luck. well....maybe thats a good thing it didnt kill it.

i could live with how it runs, long enough to get to a mechanic, but the brakes NEED to get working better.

oh and theres a port on the valve cover, towards the front that pushes air.....i think its pushin out oil too.....what do u guys do with that...
jsondrops   +1y
that was probably a vac switching valve
cookiemonster13   +1y
it whistles because it has a vacuum leak. you need to use propane or carb cleaner to check for leaks. most leaks on these kits come from the base gaskets. cut out good thick cork gaskets instead of the crappy paper gaskets. also the bolts into the intake and adapters plates i also use a light weight locktite like a blue.

cookie
TwistedMinis   +1y
Yeah you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If your brakes are stiff now, you may have pulled off the vacuum for the booster? Its a big line that goes under the manifold with a check valve in the middle.

Also, I just remembered something about my install. I had some issues with the throttle, and it turned out to be something simple that could be easily overlooked. There is a throttle stop on the bottom side of the linkage. Its bent over 90 degrees to hit an aluminum piece cast into the carb. Well this piece was just barely hitting the lower adapter plate when I moved the linkage. I taped up all the holes on the carb, and filed off about 1/8" off the 90 on that piece, and now it misses the adapter plate and moves freely.
granth   +1y
hey seth, i guess i talked to soon. or maybe it didnt post. i was going to ask what the piece u were talking about was, but i found it. i just cut the end off with my dremel. it doesnt hit anymore and my throttle still sticks. the nut holding the gold piece on is not tight. could something else be making it jam up? could it be misalligned somehow?
TwistedMinis   +1y
At this point, I have no idea. I would make sure the throttle cable isn't binding. But if it didn't before, it shouldn't now.
granth   +1y
im thinking maybe buying a stiff spring would help a bit. if anything it would pull the linkage back to the starting point and might give my pedal a bit better feel in the process....
TwistedMinis   +1y
Don't you have the spring on the stock throttle?