standardbyker88
+1y
what year is this on to refresh my memory.
*do you have a cable or rod linkage for the throttle?
o*n mine there was a few different issues, which are vacuum trees as i call them: there was one on the pass top of the radiator, i replaced it with a pipe plug. there was a tall one between the 2nd and 3rd intake runners near the head. there was one below the carb on the intake aiming to the side, and another similar one farther down below that.
*the kit comes with an egr blockoff plate, which should be for the part on the intake itself. it comes with a serrated fitting, that will go to the bottom of the air cleaner assembly.
*there is another part of the egr system at the passenger side of the head at the back. mine didnt come with a block off for that, so i used the stock stuff for now til i make that plate too.
*make sure you install the studs and bolts for the adapter plates properly so that it doesnt leak. do like said and use cork do it yourself gasket material, since the paper ones (if they even line up right) suck. mine didnt have the right ones, i had to make it work. i plan to redo it.
*while you are at it, check all the intake manifold bolts to the head, they can cause vacuum leaks too. check the valve cover nuts too.
*make sure your cap and rotor arent all skuzzy inside, if they are scrape it off or replace them. brass insert style caps are better if the parts guy can get you one.
*install some autolite 64 plugs. they are good plugs, cheap and gives you a fresh slate for checking in a while to see how its running.
*the line to that round thing is the charcoal can, it lets the fuel fumes from the tank get shoved into the engine and not out into the atmosphere. take that line and run the rubber hose up high near the wiper motor and then you should be good on that.
*as for the lines from the valve cover, you can cork the egr plate and run the front one into the air cleaner, its just hard to get the rubber hose to make those bends.
*the one at the back can get a peice of rubber line and run down to the side of the frame.
tuning time:
*if you have the linkage, not cable, for the throttle then make sure you it will let you get the carb all the way to the idle position. if it wont, adjust it so you can. im sure this is able to be done on the cable style too. but i dont have that setup to know how.
*also, make sure it can go all the way to the wide open position with the pedal. if it cant, make adjustments so you can.
*you are going to want the cable set so that you can adjust the idle screw on the carb to let it rise or lower as necessary.
*on the idle mixture screw (its on the side, aiming at an angle backward at the passenger side. its near the idle speed). with the truck not running. screw it all the way in. then back it out 2 full turns. that should be a decent starting point. you want to get the truck idleing and keep turning the screw out until it doesnt speed up any faster. when you find the spot it wont speed up anymore, go back in 1/2 to 1 turn from there. it will be a good baseline. reset your idle speed where you like it (back down since the extra idle fuel let it speed up).
*now, let it warm up. shut it off. start it back up without touching the gas. if it is hesitant to start, even with using the throttle, then loosen the bolt holding the distributor down and turn it a little bit. just a few degrees. repeat this step, it should help a little bit.
that list should have you running pretty well now. let me know if you need more help.