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Ask A Pro \  Pics of my stepnotch, do you see any issues?

Pics of my stepnotch, do you see any issues?

Ask A Pro Q & A
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replies 43
following 29
 
granth   +1y
Originally posted by iLLblazer



Only issue now that you have capped the notch off the truck, is that you will not be able to weld the outer plates to the top edge of the frame, which is fairly important IMO.

just me being nosey, but would the plug welds being added somewhat counter balance not weleding the top edge of the frame to the notch?
AVTekk   +1y
I wanted to touch on the HAZ (blue area) people were originally commenting on. Those parts are hot rolled, which leaves the thick dark coating on the outside of the metal. This will hide a lot of the HAZ and wont make it nearly as appartent as a clean piece of steel would, as in the pictures above.

The notch looks good man, I too would consider the top of the rail an important area of strength, so it kinda sucks that its blocked off now. The plug welds will help out tho so you shouldnt be too concerned with it breaking.
ahab   +1y
I would like to make dirty rusty sex to those notches.
mazberrydelight   +1y
i have nothing to add to this thread , its just nice to read a topic and not see hating /shit talking. is SSM finally growing up ? btw looks like nice work
granth   +1y
its because max asked nicely when he was first givin this section. i think hes one person everyone on ssm respects the opinion of, let alone the wealth of information and help he has given. just my two cents.
scotto79   +1y
About the Miller that you're using, the gun probably does suck, and also watch the ground itself. I just picked up a Miller 280 right when it came out. The ground clamp they included was a flimsy sheetmetal one that burned through, so I replaced it with a solid bronze clamp instead and its must steadier now. I also replaced the gun with a new one from Tregaskiss welding.
jsondrops   +1y
i don't see those notches failing anytime soon!
nice work man
AON-4PumpedCL   +1y
Originally posted by AVTekk



I wanted to touch on the HAZ (blue area) people were originally commenting on. Those parts are hot rolled, which leaves the thick dark coating on the outside of the metal. This will hide a lot of the HAZ and wont make it nearly as appartent as a clean piece of steel would, as in the pictures above.

The notch looks good man, I too would consider the top of the rail an important area of strength, so it kinda sucks that its blocked off now. The plug welds will help out tho so you shouldnt be too concerned with it breaking.

I'm glad you mentioned that because I had the same theory after I practiced welding a little more. Again, I appreciate everyone's input.

And Andy,Just use protection because I don't want you passing on any diseases to my virgin frame work.

-Aaron
Pneufab   +1y
Edited: 8/2/2008 1:47:50 PM by Pneufab

Edited: 8/2/2008 1:46:49 PM by Pneufab

Looks dope!

Just a little info I would like to share on hot rolled. I used one of these norton rapid strip, on a 4.5" grinder, last weekend to remove the mill scale from a 3'x4' pc of 3/8" steel. By far it works better than anything else I have used (flap wheels, wire brushes, grinding stones, fiber disc, scotchbrite)! I am definetly going to purchase some more in the future.

They work so well, that I am going to get in the habit of cleaning every piece of tubing and plate before welding.

I personally prefer the Miller guns over Tweco or most Bernard. Tregaskiss used to make the guns for Miller. Now ITW purchased Tregaskiss (about a year ago) and Bernard (a few years ago) so which ever company makes the " M series" guns I am not sure, but they are not made by Miller directly. I also wanted to mention that I agree and practice the technique that "Joel" posted for welding and finishing outside corner joints. Not only do you not waste a day grinding but you barely even remove any material.

Anyway, good job! I like em.

t



scotto79   +1y
My buddy works at Tregaskiss in Windsor so he gets me the employee discounts, can't complain with that one