UPDATE ON THE B/D RAM ON 26'S

Originally posted by UnusualFabrication



Originally posted by iLLblazer



A lever setup with a good ratio would usually take less psi to lift, which is why the ride softer. Maybe something is binding or not really engineered properly? Either way, i hope I can get to SEMA and see it in person.

Kind of what I was thinking but I was threading lightly as to avoid being attacked about my knowledge of chassis and suspension design.Don't get me wrong guys I could absolutely make the air work and I'm sure it wouldn't have any problems except the maitenance. But honestly deep down I just want to juice it so I don't have to mess with it any after I'm done.

Originally posted by PatFukenBurke



Originally posted by UnusualFabrication



Originally posted by iLLblazer



A lever setup with a good ratio would usually take less psi to lift, which is why the ride softer. Maybe something is binding or not really engineered properly? Either way, i hope I can get to SEMA and see it in person.

Kind of what I was thinking but I was threading lightly as to avoid being attacked about my knowledge of chassis and suspension design.Don't get me wrong guys I could absolutely make the air work and I'm sure it wouldn't have any problems except the maitenance. But honestly deep down I just want to juice it so I don't have to mess with it any after I'm done.



No problems with wanting to juice something over bagging it! When you compare a hydraulic cylinder to an air spring wouldn't the cylinder have more moving parts though? On the maintainence level the cylinder has orings and seals were an airspring has none of those so i'm not sure were your gripe is coming from as far as maintainence goes. Unless you are talking about using an 18" stroke cylinder over a levered setup air spring.

Can you shed a little more light on the economical 12v. hydraulics that virtually never have to be touched? Maybe some part #'s, pics and a video of one in action? This sounds like something I may be able to use.

Originally posted by pmiller



Are you going to change the cantilever setup in the front? I'm just trying to picture how you'd use a cylinder with a spring on that setup. Are you going to use a regular auto hydro style cylinder or something bigger or more industrial? I can picture a cylinder being used with that setup but an accumulator would have to be used. I just can't wait to see what you come up with.

It's looking like a cantilever with an inverted coil-under. I'll take some pics and post them as I get closer.

You could go with some more industrial parts. Like pumps from a box truck lift gate or something. I'm not sure about it being more economical. They're quite expensive. Running a 12v system will just be slow. It'll be less wear and tear on the electric motor. Then that just moves on down the line with the pumps and lines. The whole purpose on giving the hydros more voltage is to make it faster.

Originally posted by mreed



Can you shed a little more light on the economical 12v. hydraulics that virtually never have to be touched? Maybe some part #'s, pics and a video of one in action? This sounds like something I may be able to use.If anyone on here can remember my tow pig a F350 Diesel from back in the day. I bought it straight off the lot new in 2000 and lay'd it out with air and a 4 link in the rear and and hydros up front. I used a Hijacker integrated pump and put a #4 gear in it to drop the amperage draw and make it easy for the motor to turn. I ran it off the stock under hood batteries and stock alternator. I owned it for 3 years and never even put oil in it. I only ever had a problem one time. The nut holding the dump coils on fell off at minitruck nats and I had to pull in the gas station and take 5 to fix it. I basically bolted it under the bed and forgot about it. I've done about 2 dozen of these set ups over the years to never have a problem with one. You don't have to do anything special just get a smaller gear and use only one solenoid.

Good info Pat!

Pat, on a 12v system. what about the dumps? dont they have to run at 24v?

what you know about that one Pat... did you ever see this video... we will get it out sometime again...

Originally posted by yourbabysdaddy



Pat, on a 12v system. what about the dumps? dont they have to run at 24v?



In competition cars we run the dumps at 24 volts so they open harder and faster, if one of the batteries were to drop below 12 volts then the dumps will still open up and not destroy your run during a competition.

You have to use parts from several different after market manufacturers of hydraulics to get a good system i.e. marzocchi gears, saco motors, single solenoids wired in a series rather than a prestolit block, and pro hopper cylinders, for blocks Id use a CCE block, because when we were there we designed several different blocks that can be used in street and competition setups like you need them too, and hey if you eve use a CCE powerball, Thank Pat Burke as he designed em lol