2 door tahoe build, Tre5 Customs

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by thacru78I have a question...the way the cylinder is solidly mounted in the top...as the arm goes through it's travel wont there be alot of pressure on the seals due to the cylinder not sycling in a strait line.  By my rough calculationals playing wit a tape measure on my desk...if your getting 14 inches of travel...with a 18 LCA (guess)...with the cylinder mounted 10 inches from the pivot point...That means that the sylinder is being pushed or pulled almost an inch off center at full lift and drop. On a 8 inch cylinder that seems like alot of pressure on the seals. Seems like there should be a pivot at the top and bottom...I'm not double guessing you at all...I'm just starting to get interested in Hydraulics...so I'm trying to understand it all. Is the there a particular reason you mount them like that or a particular reason why you don't use a pivot at the top and bottom. Thanks man.

--------------------------------------------- In this particular application there will be a coil under a cup and the coil will have flexibility.  Even if you wanted to run straight accumulator and no coil, you can run a powerball on the lower control arm which has about an inch of articulation. 

Damn that is a dope ride

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by thacru78I have a question...the way the cylinder is solidly mounted in the top...as the arm goes through it's travel wont there be alot of pressure on the seals due to the cylinder not sycling in a strait line.  By my rough calculationals playing wit a tape measure on my desk...if your getting 14 inches of travel...with a 18 LCA (guess)...with the cylinder mounted 10 inches from the pivot point...That means that the sylinder is being pushed or pulled almost an inch off center at full lift and drop. On a 8 inch cylinder that seems like alot of pressure on the seals. Seems like there should be a pivot at the top and bottom...I'm not double guessing you at all...I'm just starting to get interested in Hydraulics...so I'm trying to understand it all. Is the there a particular reason you mount them like that or a particular reason why you don't use a pivot at the top and bottom. Thanks man.

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 This is funny, Derek and I were just talking about this a couple of days ago..."I wonder who will be the first to chime in and say that the cylinder needs to pivot at the top."  Like Derek already stated, this is a coil under setup. All the articulation will be in the coil. No need for a pivot at the top. If you look at my build thread on the Mazda, you will see that I used a pivot on the body of the cylinder and a heim at the bottom. This is because it is setup with an accumulator. So you were on the right track with your "calculationals", just the wrong application.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by thacru78I have a question...the way the cylinder is solidly mounted in the top...as the arm goes through it's travel wont there be alot of pressure on the seals due to the cylinder not sycling in a strait line.  By my rough calculationals playing wit a tape measure on my desk...if your getting 14 inches of travel...with a 18 LCA (guess)...with the cylinder mounted 10 inches from the pivot point...That means that the sylinder is being pushed or pulled almost an inch off center at full lift and drop. On a 8 inch cylinder that seems like alot of pressure on the seals. Seems like there should be a pivot at the top and bottom...I'm not double guessing you at all...I'm just starting to get interested in Hydraulics...so I'm trying to understand it all. Is the there a particular reason you mount them like that or a particular reason why you don't use a pivot at the top and bottom. Thanks man.

---------------------------------------------i know he pissed you off alot man and im not trying by no means being a smart ass or anything. but if you ever wanted to know something bout hydraulics you should have asked pat burke before he got kicked off here. he is a fn genious when it comes to that stuff. look it some old min itruckin magazines and lowriders youll see what i mean. im not talking bout 2000.  look back like 92-98  he had more knowledge bout that stuff than anyone does to day back then. he still working for that tire place i think? idk.  miss them days with burke, perez, hardin, and i for got the other guy..........all different shops all bad ass on there work......sorry for hijacking it

Those cylinder shafts are going to hate you, even with the spring having a little movement and with an accumulator you will still need a little room for movement up top. I hope you prove me wrong though.  its just always been our experience that if it doesnt have a little bit of movement the shafts tend to bend, i dont know how thick your shafts are though.  sicsan, Pat has a collision shop in georgetown KY, we just had a unwanted get together ladst year due to the death of a friend, is was dean karns, pat, kasey hardin, brian gillespie and a few other old heads at one dinner table in a restaraut it was like 93 again lol

Ha...Mr. Pat Burke...I don't have no hard feelings towards that guy. I got a cold beer waiting for him one day...i'll be sure to deliver it to him in my Dodge. Hydraulics peek my interest...being compact...play time...and the amount of stroke they give peeks my interest. Still havent talked myself into them yet but i'm warming up to the idea. I really liked the 12v setup Pat was talking about...would take one less worry out of the deal...worrying about voltage and rechargin batteries. Keep up the good work guys...I got my eyes's on this thread.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by smithchassisThose cylinder shafts are going to hate you, even with the spring having a little movement and with an accumulator you will still need a little room for movement up top. I hope you prove me wrong though.  its just always been our experience that if it doesnt have a little bit of movement the shafts tend to bend, i dont know how thick your shafts are though.  sicsan, Pat has a collision shop in georgetown KY, we just had a unwanted get together ladst year due to the death of a friend, is was dean karns, pat, kasey hardin, brian gillespie and a few other old heads at one dinner table in a restaraut it was like 93 again lol

---------------------------------------------NO accumulators. The cylinder shafts will not hate me. They will love me! They do not need to move one bit. I hate when it is just a round cut out in the top. It allows for uneeded movement and eventually wears the hole oblong and wears the edges of the cylnder. Then it starts to look ugly and the cylinder rattles around in the now ovalish circle. Most of the lowrider guys are doing it the way I did it, so you have already been proven wrong.

well the 15 years weve been doing it must be wrong then, but i dunno what kinda holes youve been cutting but we can take a monte carlo for instance make it do mid 60s and not have the hole oblong like that, but we are talking two different things here, so MAYBE with the low voltage you guys are running it wont hurt the shafts... good luck