Iwata vs Sata

i own pretty much all iwatas. but have used an rp 3000 a few times. i will saw the sata is easier to get a good finish then the iwata. also, the iwata can be a bitch to spray metallic colors even with the orange extreme cap or the lvb purple cap. but i still havent sold my iwatas yet. so i dunno, i guess i like to struggle a little more.  guys who use satas swear by them. another vialbe option is the newer tekna guns.

I clear with an Iwata lph400 and base with a sata rp3000. And wouldn't change a thing

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by GremlinguyI clear with an Iwata lph400 and base with a sata rp3000. And wouldn't change a thing--------------------------------------------- This is what I do aswell, just because the Iwata creates a nice commercially acceptable finish, suitable for most cars, and does save materials over an RP. Since I work in a production shop, this works out really well for me.

When I first started I picked up a old used Sata NR92 for color and a 90 for clear, I still use the 90 for clear for now for as long as I can before the new epa stuff comes into effect next year, just because it works really well for me. But I got a LPH400 with the orange cap and it was the best I have ever been able to make the caddy diamond white tri coat look. I have demoed a LPH with the silver cap and it lays the clear down about as good for me as any other RP or HVLP gun that I have tried and since I have to replace my 90 before much longer thats what im going with.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by GremlinguyI clear with an Iwata lph400 and base with a sata rp3000. And wouldn't change a thing---------------------------------------------Slam dunk combo right there. Thats exactly what I use to.

i got a few iwata lph 400's for colors and i switched over to the tekina guns for clears, i got a few satas gatherin dust, i got 2 2000 and a 3000 and i dont care for um any more, for production they work fine but for me there to fast for custom stuff. i learned on jga 502's tho in the early 70's so that could be way i like a slower gun

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by slammedcivicsi---------------------------------------------Originally posted by GremlinguyI clear with an Iwata lph400 and base with a sata rp3000. And wouldn't change a thing---------------------------------------------This is what I do aswell, just because the Iwata creates a nice commercially acceptable finish, suitable for most cars, and does save materials over an RP. Since I work in a production shop, this works out really well for me.---------------------------------------------

  surprisingly on a a few tests i have been apart of. the iwata using ms to hs clears actually wastes more material then the rp.  seen it first hand. it doesnt have the umph to break up the thicker material.

So im going to get the lph 400 i decided. but now another question. they have two kinds. the kind they've had forever which i guess in a year will be non compliant or something and they have a new style with a orange cap. they will give me either one for the same money.  but which one of those would be the best to get.  

I perfer the sata out of the two and also i have the one with the orange cap.

this question is going to give you a variety of answers as if you were to ask which is better, ford or chevy!!   it's all user preference.  they're both excellent brands & each have their ups & downs, but i personally love all my satas more.  a couple people said they don't like the jet 90's but that's actually the one i prefer out of all of them.  i put the 1.3 tip on it & put the "horn" air cap on it & can use it for anything i want.  1 thing i can say is that i was very UN-impressed with a nr2000 i had so stay away from that one & the RP's are great. either way you will be buying a great gun so just go with whatever you want & you won't be let down.