mazdatweaker_2
+1y
Hi everyone, it's me, again. "Maybe" I have figured this puzzle out. I have have learned some kind of lesson in this about verifying the wok. I went back with my meter and started checking things, and found that even though I thought I had a good body ground from the battery, when I took meter readings on the head of the bolt that secures the ground strap to the body, it was showing an open, or excessive resistance, not because it wasn't tight, but because I hadn't gotten all the corrosion (rust) when I thought I had cleaned it up the first time.
The best I could get in terms of ground path voltage to the body from the battery was 7 volts, which would bounce up if I pushed on the head of a bolt like a dentist would do with a loose filling . Lots of floating resistance. What that meant, was that the regulator, which is grounded through the lamp to the body, was unable to sense a rising ground charge, and push open the field gate in the regulator. Since the gate was staying closed, battery voltage was left alone to climb. The battery is supposed to discharge to the body and the engine, not send excessive charge through the regulator to the body while trying to find or force a regulator ground.
Since I may have shorted the regulator inside of this alternator prior to finding this issue, I may be in for another alternator, because I may have fried the regulator in this one.
Part of the hidden cost to owning 37 year-old-hardware. Rust never sleeps.