88 C30 susp setup

hi i'm new and all the way from canada and i have a 88 c30 dually that i'm planning on putting on air and i have read everythng i can find on the web about these trucks i have built lots of cars and truck before just not a c30 i was wondering if you guys could tell me exactly what i'm going to need for the front susp of the truck to make it lay out i have 22'' semis on 265/35/22 on the front and i do know for sure i'm going to be cutting the bottom of the frame off to do a body drop. i've have been looking at channeling the front cross member, doing a Z , spindles, arms just not sure what the best way to go is. i've talked to lots of shops and people but no one can give me a real answer. sorry for the grade 1 question and thanks for your time.

there are different ways to do it... if your gunna z the frame then the easiest way would be to run 3/4 rotors in the front to suck the wheels in.. build new control arms with spindles and be on the ground hard.

the 3/4 rotors im assuming they are still off a 3/4 dually ? . and why new control arms what needs to be changed from the old ones. and how big of a Z and is a Z my only option i don't mind doing it if needs to done but my time is limited with work so i need to do lots of planning thanks

The 3/4 ton stuff would be single rear wheel, that would suck the wheels in a bunch. But then it would look gay so you would have to have your control arms lengthened a little to bring the wheels back out some, then it should look just right.

If you want it to lay flat frame you need to z or go with a suicide doors or porterman(I think that's right) front crossmember, but neither of those are set up for 1 tons so I think they need some modding to work. And they are pricey.

If you are going to cut the bottom of the frame off you will need to figure that into your z. I think most guys actually move the body mounts down and cut the top off the frame. If you cut the bottom off you have to figure that amount into all your suspension and get that much more drop.

Porterbuilt by Nathan Porter of Porterbuilt Street Rods in Mesa.

He does in fact have these for 1tons. Whatayaknow on here has one with ART strong arms that Nate modified for the one ton ball joints. He now manufatures his own control arms and can modify them longer or shorter per your request. I have one in my 1972 C10 suburban and optioned out one for my Dually but haven't made the purchase yet.

As for price... Well all I can say is given the bolt in nature of the kit and the high level of fit and finish it is actually a bargain. You can pay for the parts and do it yourself or unless you are a skilled welder or happy taking your chances with a hack job you will pay a shop near as much to complete a quality Z. I have been on both sides on this one. I happen to be an AWS certified welder with an engineering degree and 21 years auto customizing experience. I have Z'd many trucks and as long as the Porterbuilt piece exists I will NEVER z another 66-87 (91 if you count the burbs and 1 tons).

Josh

why would you not Z another truck?

Josh

Well the z vs dropmember argument has been beat to near death on the suspension forum @ 67-72chevytrucks.com so I'll keep it short and relevent to my experience here. For my 72 I have about $3k wrappped up in my suspension. I am older now and in a position financially where I can buy parts that I used to make.
With a z you have a lot of hours labor but very little cost if you do the work yourself ( let's assume everyone attempting these mods is truely skilled enough at welding to be doing so, even though in reality we know that not even close to the truth) but what do you truly end up with? Yes your suspension is now higher and your xmember is up enough to allow the frame to sit flat but...... you still have all your old stock crappy parts that still need replaced, you have to fab new motor and trans mounts and deal with steering mods.

For my money I got NEW upper and lower control arms that were bag ready, new xmember that was not only raised but narrowed track width for steering clearance. The axle center line is moved forward ~1" to center wheels in well and help with firewall clearance. Power rack and pinion that bolts into place solving steering issues and giving better than stock handling with improved bump-steer characteristics. All bushings, ball joints, nuts, bolts , and washers are all replaced with upgraded units.

I have a 0 mile front end where as if I had Z'd yeah I'd be lower but still have all the old parts and 5 times the work. Smarter not harder. Just my preference but I come by it honestly.

Josh

i have an 82 chevy would you suggest buying the porterbuilt cross member or the one suicide doors sells as far as i know they both do the same thing just different components what do u think?

well i gave nathon a call at porterbuilt and they do have a crossmember for the C30 you can use your upper arms if you want but you need to replace your lowers he also has tubuler uppers and lowers at any length. i think this is the way i'm going to go i'm able to do a Z its just all the little issues that will have to be dealt with later that i just dont have time for. but i don't know what length to order the a-arms the crossmember is i think 1.3/4 narrower so would i need to run the 3/4 brakes and if i still do how much longer should the arms be now ?

Joshua if your 82 is a C30 than porterbuilt is the only ones that make a crossmember for you truck.