Stockfloorin my 2000 crew cab on 22's..

everybody has there own way. either way she will be painted and sick.

doors are back on... the back ones went on fine.. the fronts are are a pain in the ass.. i bought new pin and bushings for the front doors. the pins are identical to the ones that came out but the bushing dont seem to wanna go into the hing. its almost as if they are a just a lil larger in diameter. i bought the kits for the 88-98 ck1,2,&3.. anyone know why the bushings dont want to go in? i gotta go to harbor freight and get the spring tool.. so maybe one night this week i can get them all strightened out.. any help with the bushings would be greatly appreciated.

try a 2000 s10 bushing. same hing as full size with smaller bushing and pin. i work for napa auto parts right now and thats what my manager suggested. i have seen this before on a tahoe of the same body style with a previous employer but there was already a couple monkeys screwing the football so i did not get to see the end result. the rears went in fine but the fronts did not. he actually cracked one in the front trying to make it work. we show a listing for the pin and bushing for a 91 to 02 3500 hd. this may or may not help.

Done many of the door pins and bushings and they are a tight fit. You have to find a way to evenly press them in, I usually used a pair channel locks to get them started and then finish them off with a socket and big pair of vise grips. Or use a bolt, washer and nut to press it in if you arent comfortable with the channel locks and vise grips. " target="_blank

It's an interference fit (the bushing is actually bigger than the hole) so the bushing doesn't spin in the hinge and wear the hinge out. Easy trick (kinda): throw the bushing in the freezer (to make it contract), get the hinge hot as you feel comfortable with, without screwing up the paint (to make it expand) and it should pretty much slip in. Maybe not that easy, but should definitely be easier.

And who says rednecks aren't useful?

I tried a punch that fit inside the bushing pefectly that was mashined down. So it was a perfect guide. I gave it a few smacks with the hammer and it cracked.. It seem like its close.. These are the first bushings ive done on this body style truck. I had to put bushings in my 96 2door tahoe about two months ago and the went in with a slick hit of the hammer. Everything looks the same... Same kit... But these bushings just dont seem like theyre gonna go in. I dont wan to drill the holes out to fit because the doors fit perfectly before. Also the bushings that came out almost seem like a thinner material then the new ones.. Anyways ill try the freezer trick and see how that goes. I probly wont get much time i. The ne t couple days cuz i have family in town.. Im gonna run by napa thurs and get the spring tool and see if they have any different bushings.. I hope something works because these things lined up perfectly before. Pulled em off for paint. Banged the old bushings out so i can put the new ones in. And had to end up re-using the old ones. Now the driver door has play. Anyways i hope i can sort this out nex time i work on it...

Good luck bro. I bought a set of U-joints for a two piece shaft one time, cut the old ones out with a torch the found out that only the center was "replaceable". At least, nobody I found made the outters. Had to buy a used shaft, but at least I had 3 u-joints for it. lmao

i havent had much time in the last two weeks to work on the truck.. last night i got the door pins taken care of and i started to cut the rear inner tubs out the bed. while doing so i noticed my driver side rail is bent down a half an inch.. thank god its in the back but its still annoying the crap out of me cuz the back of the bed isnt sittin right. im not sure if its from the accident from when he smashed into the bed or from welding the notches in.. either way is drivin me nuts.. anybody got any ideas besides draggin it to a frame machine? its perfectly sqaure at the front of the notches and the notches are level.. so its only in the rear.. i thought about using a jack on the rear rail but havent got any clever ideas to anchor the truck down so it doesnt lift.. i also thought about relief cutting the rail and jackin it up then weld it and plate it up.. i got another question someone might be able to help me out with. this is the first dually ive done. and im gettin ready to start tackling the front suspension soon. i am goin with tubular arms that are longer and going to run the srw rotor.. my question is do i need a drop spindle with the tubular arms? and also, are the srw and drw spindles the same just different rotors? thanks for any help or ideas..

you dont have to run drop spindles. its personal opinion.