1990 b2200 carborated newbie

i joined another forum to try to get this truck running again, but i got very little help nor does the sight seem to get much traffic.. It is officially my father's truck. He picked it up about 2 months ago, it had an engine fire around july or aug i think, but it was not too bad of a fire, the damage is not so bad. I put new plug wires on it, and have not spent very much time on it. I think i fried a relay on it last week trying to see why its not starting. I thought it was the fuel pump relay due to location, but the relay board seems a little complecated to be a simple 12v relay...


Can someone point me to a NO-start walkthru? i have spark. it is cold right now so i will be doing even less daily work on this thing. i dont know about carbs either. lots of fun im sure. (/s) i have been working on my honda for year and years, but it has fuel injection.

also what is the part number for the flanged part (im assuming) that should be mounted on the carb filter cover? a rubber hose with perhaps a pcv valve would be mounted to the flange or what ever is missing.

Sounds like it turns over which is a good sign. I would start at the tank and make sure fuel is getting all the way to the carb. It sounds like it isn't getting any fuel.

Use aerosol starting fluid into the carb, then mash down the pedal try to start (do a few times). If it runs a few seconds, then the issue is fuel related.

These trucks often have rusty tanks which clog the fuel sock and fuel filter.

Here are part numbers you were asking about, and you may need to cross-reference:
crankcase air filter Fram BA7100 (fits inside air cleaner, with "elbow" to the PCV hose.
PCV valve Fram FV275 Deutsch PCV138 (AutoZone)

Sometimes more "traffic" on mazdatrucking.com

cusser, you have already helped me more in one post, after i have only been registered a day, than the other sight did in a few weeks. THANK YOU for your insights. once the weather warms a bit i will get back on it. i picked up some starting fluid yesterday, and once i get the motor going a bit i will use your part numbers to get the breather setup reinstalled. thank you again. i will try to post a pic of the relay i fried. hopefully it wasnt some very important... im sure it is tho.

There were two relays next to the driverside door. this one had 4 wires so i assumed it was fuel relay. maybe it is and is solid state or something?? not a regular coil and switch relay for sure..

So is your truck a electronic fuel pump? If so just put a jumper in for time being in that relay and listen for the pump to kick on. In the picture you posted I dont see a mechanical one but then again the picture doesnt show a good angle on the placement of it. There is a good source of knowledge here if you can get people to respond to your forum. Most of them assume you havent searched.

ive searched a bit definately. Working on my honda is way easier via the internet bc there are tons more info and diy walkthru guides on pretty much everything (im sure there is for the mazdas too, i just havent found them as easily yet). ive rebuilt my civic motor, replaced bearing inside my civ's tranny, installed rear disc brakes, done a/c stuff, seats, stereo... i have a little ability, ive just never worked on a carb before nor a mazda. here are a few more pics i took of the bay, so maybe yall can tell if it is mech or electrical fuel pump.

***much thanks guys for the help so far! and sorry for the huge mega pics... is there an easy way to make them smaller or what size should i try to make any further ones for uploading?

When i pulled the relay out, i tried to jump where the relay was, but didnt really hear anything. It was getting 12v (at the relay removed) with the key in and turned to on also.

The throttle cable was melted and seized up. I have replaced it already. There seems to be no rebound on the gas petal or very little.

add a spring to the throttle plate. Ill take a picture of mine when I get home.

I also have a honda. My build is on civicforum. I have a civic with a t66 turbo on it. I think my build is under the same name as on here. The civic I have is completely stupid to even attempt to drive under its drag strip setting. I rewired the AC button to activate the alterate map on my hondata setup so boost switches from 9 which is my wastegate spring setting to 44psi in which the car tries to smoke the tires completely off of it running 80 on a normal rode that is. Its almost impossible to hold it in one lane.

Anyways back to your mazda. If your getting power to the fuze block next step is to see if you are at the tank. If your are then I would assume that your fuel pump is probably stopped up at that point.

Another thing you could do is pull a wire from battery all the way back to the tank and hook up the wire to the fuel pump if it isnt getting power that far back. That way you can eliminate a short in a wire and know your getting full voltage to the fuel pump exactly when you touch it.

Another object you could try is to pour some gas in the carb and try it the old fashioned way. does the same thing starting fluid does except starting fluid does not have the chance of filling up a cylinder completely by mistake or catching on fire if the truck backfires. Just a thought.

Ok and your first picture is of the fuse block. My truck looks completely different from yours as mine has been converted but those are Master fuzes. Sorry if the name is wrong as Im not exatly sure of the name but those are fuzes anyways. I think its a manual fuel pump. Someone else who has that carb give some input.

If its a manual fuel pump the possibility of it being out is slim but not impossible. The manual fuel pump is on passenger side of motor by the firewall up under the air cleaner assembly. There will be 2 bolts holding it in place with a small spacer.