Saving Weight

Does anybody build the chromemoly a arms or will they have to be fabbed from scratch?There is a driveshaft shop here that can build u a shaft to spec but I dont recall ever seeing the a arms. Did see some on eBay for a Mustang II front end but not Bseries.BJ

I CHECKED HERE IN HUNTSVILLE AT HUNTSVILLE DRIVESHAFT, THEY QUOTED ME @ $250 OVER THE PHONE FOR A ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT FOR WHEN I GET THE YOTA REAR AXLE....DOUBT I GO W/ ALUMINUM THO AS THEY ARE PRONE TO TWIST & BREAK. AS FOR THE TUBULAR ARMS, EVERY COMPANY I'VE SEEN THAT MAKES THEM USUALLY GOES OUT OF BUSINESS.......MIGHT COULD CHECK WITH MATT @ GRANT KUSTOMS, HE MIGHT KNOW OF SOMEONE WHAT WOULD MAKE YOU A SET.

ON ANOTHER NOTE ABOUT THE UNSPRUNG WEIGHT, YOU COULD GET A LIGHTER SET OF WHEELS, DO THE CONTROL ARMS & LIGHTEN THE CHASSIS A FEW LBS BY DRILLING A FEW HOLES IN THE FRAME, & MAYBE GETTING RID OF SOME OF THE FRAME X-MEMBERS FOR SOME LIGHTER TUBLUAR ONES LIKE THE ONE JUST IN FRONT OF THE AXLE, BUT YOU'D HAVE TO FIND A SPOT TO PUT THE SPARE TIRE.

AS FAR AS ROTATIONAL MASS, YOU COULD GET A LIGHTER 1 PIECE DRIVESHAFT, ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL, YOU'VE ALREADY GOTTEN RID OF
THE CLUTCH FAN FOR AN ELECTRIC ONE......

CAN'T THINK OF MUCH ELSE OTHER THAN WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION, WHICH MOVING THE BATTERY TO THE REAR, ALONG WITH SWAPING OUT THE GAS TANK FOR A FUEL CELL & RELOCATING IT TO BEHIND THE AXLE.....

& AS FAR AS THE BIGMAC COMMENT , THE ONLY WAY A POUND OR TWO IS GONNA MAKE A DIFFERENCE IS IF YOUR RACING A CROTCH ROCKET & NEED TO KNOCK A COUPLE TENTHS OFF YOUR LAP TIMES TO KEEP UP....

Thanks man. Already running the Mazda alloys and when I put them on I shaved them a bit to lighten them up even more.I also took a few .001's off the torsions,front sway and control arms.The Belltech rear sway/ladder bar is already lite.I think one of the above posts mentioned unsprung weight and that is where I have run out of ideas/parts. I will ask Matt/Grant if he can source a set of lite a-arms.Truck is giving me all its got I think but it aint got quite enough.I am real hesitant to drill holes in x-members cause I sure dont want to crack one.A lite weight aluminum one would be really sweet.I really want to keep the spare as it adds a few pounds where I need it,in the rear.Thanks for all the ideas-more to come I hope.BJ

no prob, there is also something on mazdatrucking.com about swaping out the crank pulley for i think one from a ford probe.....but i don't think you can run a/c with this, it's been a minuite since i read over that stuff. between that & a alum. flywheel, the motor would wind up quicker.

why would you change pullys for 1 belt, only thing runnin off my crank is my alternator, ive go two 10" electrical fans header 34/36 weber for right now, i have a 38 outlaw im gonna run when i get a cam which i dont know who make cause i forgot the dam name, so if you know i would appreciate it. for an x-cab with 1 3/4 exaust into a super turbo muff. its got a decent amount of torque, and enough hosepower to burn the shit out of the tires(possy). let me kno on hat cam though

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ that had nothing to do with the subject, sorry
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I think that I read the same post.I am running a/c,ps,and the alternator off 2 belts and the probe pulley wont work for me.I have looked at an underdrive aluminum pulley as I have a friend who I think can fab that for me.He is the samt guy that lazer cut the block off plates for me and NYTRD.If he can I will get him to make several as others may want to try one.

AN aluminum driveshaft twisting and breaking....are you joking, with like 95 horsepower....not gonna happen....as for the control arms try max fish( BIOKUSTUMZ ) he is a killer fabricator...and yes lighter wheels, well greased wheel bearings, good synthetic oil in the motor, hell a carbon fiber hood will save you around 10 - 12 pounds, and a carbon tailgate another 8 - 10....toss the spare tire altogether, get a smaller battery, and redo all of the crossmembers in tubing...or go with box tubing and get die punches from lightracing....they are the ones that dimple the hole to strenghten it...
shorten the exhaust system....hmmm what else....get the crank lightened and knife edged, and put in a lightweight flywheel....


there are tonnes of things that can be don for power, and wieght reduction...

not the fact that it or any mazda might have 95 hp if there are a few mods done to the engine w/o rebuilding it, its the fact that alum driveshafts are made for racing, & if the vehicle is gonna be driven for something more than competition or as a daily, or even bagged, i wouldn't suggest it for longevity purposes......

Also,who is making carbon fiber components for these trucks?I have never seen one advertised anywhere.Knife edging cranks is 60's technology-is anyone set up to do that now with all the emphasis on newer metals and techniques? The person mentioned that is a good fabricator-how do u get in touch and has he ever built a-arms for Bseries trucks?BJ