Getting fed up with my B

Are both battery + and - cables new?

check the main fuse as well, there are 2 (10)mm bolts, one on each side of the fuse. That wire connector can come loose, corroded, etc that would cause a weak connection. Also check the condition of the alternator wire.

This is how my truck would act when my ignition switch went bad. Starter rarely failed to hit, but engine was intermittent. The connections for the radio, wipers, etc. runs off of a different wire in the ignition switch than the engine, and the starter obviously has its own as well.

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If you have a no-start condition, have someone turn the key, whilst you tap on the starter with a long metal crowbar or tire tool. If this makes it start, then you have had an oil leak and it got into the starter causing poor conduct..., or it just is time for a new Starter and solenoid, as maybe the brushes are worn out.

If tapping it does not start it, then take an old screwdriver and arc it across the back of the starter between the big 12v. wire from the battery to the "Trigger" wire (White I think) If this starts it, then the problem is in your ign. or clutch safety sw. not contacting.
Just get a push button horn switch from Auto Zone, mount it under the dash (where no one can see), and then wire up directly to the solenoid trigger wire (little White wire?) on one side of the push button switch, the other side, wire up a 12volt (+) fused, to battery.
When you have a no-start condition at the ignition switch, then push the EASY button and Voila you get on down the road. Ignition switches are expensive, or so I have heard.., so just Jerry rig it for now.
I did this with my 1975 VW Rabbit years ago. Come to find out, the trigger wire was old and brittle and when it got hot it would not conduct well enough to turn the starter over. EASY button worked every time!!
or how about "Southern engineering" ??
as I like to call it.

Well finally got it fixed, since this issue an i realized i have a rear cam gasket leak, replacing soon so truck is sitting atm as it leaks way to much oil to drive. The power issues I was having came from a bad alternator wire and probably a couple others that i replaced. hasn't had an issue starting since so crossing fingers that issue is fixed lol.

Now since the rear cam seal is leaking like a stuck pig I figure since its down i'm gonna do a lot more cleaning up of my engine bay ( wires etc) since the bundle that had my alternator wire also had all the junk from the old carb and it's still there gonna run these down and remove them as i go, would like to run my wires inside the fender, neat and clean look. but i doubt i will, most likely just run down the useless wires get them cut covered and removed and then be done with it.

Are you Weber-ed? If so, the whole wiring harness on the passenger side can be removed except the wires for the wiper motor (right next to the harness) and the ground wire for the wiper motor.

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Yes I do have a weber, but i thought the headlights where in this bundle? IDK sorry just asking,and doesn't some of these lead into the main fuse box there? Again i'm not very sure i'll be looking more heavily the next few days as she sits.

nah. the two harnesses (one from driver's side, electrical stuff; passenger side, ECM harness) overlap. the driver's side harness will wrap all the way around the front of the truck and back down the passenger side to the main fuses, reaching as far back as the transmission for safety and reverse switches.

i've removed the ECM and the harness from both my B2000 and B2200.

Ok well, I did look at it before reading your post, and was about to ask why did the drivers side reach all the way around lol! and would you happen to have a picture of which wires would be the one for the transmission i should keep? as far as I know right of top of my head i have one from the bundle i have pulled loose ( the one that is connected) and seems to run back and down to the tranny. as far as i can tell anyways not sure where it would come from, the main fuse box? and where are the computers located at n these trucks? I don't wanna just cut a bunch electrical wires and leave them, rather just pull it all out and be done with it.

Manual or auto? I can give you the wiring diagrams in PDF format, but I know for manual there are only four wires that branch off of the main wiring harness. Two of the wires are for the reverse light (detects reverse in the trans) and the other is the neutral safety switch (disallows starting unless in neutral methinks).

The ECM is under the passenger-side kickpanel (on the inner side of the fender, inside the cab, down next to your feet). Simply remove the plastic cover, and it's sitting right there. There's only a couple of things holding it, a nut and a bolt, IIRC. Unplug the harness (two clips). What I do to remove the wire is simply yank from under the hood. There's only a couple of plastic holders keeping the wires against the truck, and those big clips will rip right through them. Otherwise you'd have to pull the dash. No thanks to that.

There is a third (and maybe a fourth? I'm at work, the harnesses are at home) connector that goes into the cab, but towards the driver side. One truck I could get to the connector(s) and unhook, the other truck I couldn't pull them out, so I just clipped it.

There is one black ground wire that is bolted to the inner side of the fender under the hood on the passenger side. This is for the wiper motor. You don't HAVE to keep this, just re-ground the black wire from the wiper motor if it's a hassle undoing all the wires for a single ground. However, keep all the blu-ish wires for the wiper motor! These will have to be cut out and separated from the harness!