replacing fan clutch

Try a good muffler shop like Maxi or Midas if u have one around.I am not totally sure but I think it really isnt a gasket but a metal expansion ring and they are pretty standard sized.Somebody call b.s. on me if I am wrong.BJ

So if it's still running a little hot what's next on the hit list? Bought a 190deg thermostat from Oriely's but the bore looked small. -They had it in stock and I wanted my truck back!- Probably going to call the dealership and get one ordered in. I know the catolytic converters were mentioned early on in this thread, could they be the problem now? Everything is good with new seals and it runs hot. Please help. again lol

where on the head gasket was the carbon build up? if the cats are stopped up the the carbon buildup could be from that. my cat that was attached to the exhaust manifold dropped its guts into the "turn back pipe" or collector pipe....there are three bolts right there, take some pb's penetrating lube & try to break them apart & look to see if you cat has done the same....if so & you don't want to get a header just yet you could get a little piece of pipe made to fit inbetween the exhaust manifold & the collector pipe.....there also is another cat just in front of the muffler...mine was stopped up aswell.....if the exhaust gasses cant excape from the system then the internal temperature will rise...sorta think of it as an oven....if you keep the door closed the temp will rise, if you open the door it will go down...

The carbon buildup on the head was mostly by cylinder #1 the very front right corner of the motor and then a little here and there. I definatly want to get a header but all of this has already beat my wallet in the kidneys. How would I adapt that 4 inch manifold to a downpipe and get rid of that 1st cat? Just a plate?

if ur running a 190 degree thermo it will run hot.Stock two stage opens its final stage at 180 degrees.The water in your block is 10 degrees hotter than that before ur thermo opens.I wouldnt do anything else until u get correct thermo in there.My 2200 opens the two stages at 160 and 180 and u can actually see the temp guage go up until final stage opens.Then it settles back to 1/2 up and stays there no matter how hot the day or whether air is on or not.BJ

Cool. Calling the dealership tomorrow to get that ordered. I will also investigate to see if the cat fell apart or not. Thanks again guys!

Welcome,bro.Let us know if it works out.BJ

any good exhaust shop should be able to fab up a piece to fit inbetween the manifold & the turn back / collector pipe to replace that cat....they can either take smaller pipe & flare it out, or take larger pipe & reduce it to fit the bottom end....you would just have to cap off the the two holes for the egr pipes on the turn back / collector pipe.

Hey NYTRDR24......I'm a new member, just bought a '91 B2200 and am wanting to learn these little trucks. Everything I have read in other Mazda forums say these engines are NON-INTERFERENCE motors so when you said the internals would be destroyed if the timing belt breaks that doesn't jive with everything else I have read so how can a broken timing belt destroy the internals?

That is my GREATEST Fear about this truck so I really want to get some peace of mind...especially since I have a 2500 miles drive ahead of me. I don't have the $800 a mechanic wants to R&R the belt, pump and seals and I don't have the tools here to do it and that's one reason why I have to drive to southern calif to get my tools so if I knew for certain it is a non-interference motor I would not be so stressed out on the long drive home.

Thanks Guys
Patrick
Skagit, County,Wa

It is non interference. But there is always the possibility, for example valve contact may occur if the belt breaks at 5000 rpm. I bought a truck with a broken belt, $50 and 1 hour later i had it running.