No start 89 b2200

I got a b2200 for free the kid who had it last dis some f*** up shit to it like i have no clue why but he cut the altenator wires and the head off of the altenator pivot bolt????? and the starter was only held on by one bolt but now i have all that fixed and everything he messed up. I tried to start it about a week ago with no luck did some usual things when an engine isnt starting like checking for spark and fuel i know its getting fuel on the one side of the carberator ( i dont know if its the primary or what) but its the left side if u were looking under the hood. The other one on the right side isnt getting fuel to it i dunno if its primary or secondary but it dosent open either if i push the throttle only the left side gets fuel. So while i was trying to start the car i kinda ignored that idea because it was getting fuel outta the other one. Then i checked for spark first at the coil had a friend crank the car as i held the wire at a ground shot across around a half inch but the spark looked yellowish/orange ( I heared that means a weak spark) but it gave me a nice jolt then i checked spark at the spark plug looked weak so i went out and baught distributor cap and rotor still didnt start. I thought it might be the timing belt so i took off the cover and it was fine. Thought it might be the timing so i had a friend turn the distributor while i was cranking didnt get one fire so i thought mabey it was way off got the #1 piston a lil below tdc took out distributor and turned rotr to #1 on the dist. cap still didnt get any fire tried this many times couldnt get it to fire 1 time out of all the times i tried its making me crazy and if any of you guys have any ideas on what it could be. Tia Alex (sorry that was so long)

Get a can of starting fluid and spray some in the carburetor. If it starts running you know you are not getting fuel to the carb. So check your fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel line to the carb and put it in a small container, disconnect the ignition coil negative wire then crank and see if fuel comes out of the hose.

I already tried that and i know im getting fuel into the one side of the carberator just dont know if the other side is supposed to be getting fuel or not but the throttle valve isnt moving on the right side if u were looking under the hood. I think i have tried everything.

No, you have not tried everything yet. Because if you did, the truck will be running by now.
The secondary is supposed to open at a certain speed thru the linkage when the primary is about 75% open or something.
If you are getting spark and fuel, then you are not getting compression on the cylinders.
When you did the timing test, was the crank pulley at zero and the camshaft pulley marker #1 pointing up towards the rear housing mark?
Do a compression test.

Do you mean the lil circle on the crank pulley lined up with the timing degree's? bvecause when that is lined up with the timing mark the cam pulley isnot pointing at #1 on the timing belt housing its almost at 2

The front crank pulley has a timing mark (a nick on the edge) close to the lower timing belt cover. Line that up with the zero mark on the lower timing belt cover and the camshaft pulley #1 should be up and lined up with the camshaft rear cover timing mark.
If the camshaft pulley is not on #1, rotate the crank another full turn and it should line up. If not, the timing is OFF which explains the non-starting condition. If it lines up, then the ignition rotor should point to # 1 spark plug.

well i got the timing perfect...... and ofcourse with my luck no start and also not 1 cyl fired. sounded exactly like all the other times.. so mabey its compression like u said. i still woulda thought i woulda had 1 cyl fire just because i put around 2 secs of ether in there still not one fire. I might be able to get a compression tester on wed but until then i can try some stuff if u have any ideas
Thanks again

Yes, a compression tester will be your only way to test, then it will be real easy to troubleshoot the no start condition once you have compression on all four cylinders. Good luck!

Well, i did a compression test and it came out to be anywhere from 15-30 psi and it needs atleast 60 to even run.. im pretty shur it isnt the valves because the compression was the same on all cyl or atleast pretty dam close to the same.. took off the valve cover anyways to check some stuff out see that the rocker arms are moving. They are just fine everything seemed ok.. so the last thing it could be is the piston rings im thinking.. which kinda gets me a lil angry because it pretty much means its never gunna run unless i rebuild motor has 190k miles. OUCH

yea that sux...but hey just pop the head off. remove the oilpan pop the conectingrodépiston assemblys out you can probably get away with just honeing it throw some rings in there and button everything back up you can do it with the engine still in the truck 1 or 2 weekends depending on how fast your hands move..get a haynes manual if your not that comfortable with it but whatever happens you cant give up on a b..i dunno it would be like 200 bucks for headgasket rings and a honing tool and ya would atleast get away with it for 20 thousant more miles...or if you live near niagra falls you can come and have my engine for a case of budwiser