hey all newb here... looking at motor options

I have just recently purchased a 89 b2200 regular cab short bed 2wd. and this is how it sits now. the motor is out of the truck. I have 2 complete motors both are disassembled and have been sitting. one is a 2.2 and the other is a 2.0. future plans for the truck mainly to be a driver, but will be bagged and bd to the rockers (pinch most likely). I am looking to get the best combo both economical and time wise. I have contemplated doing a swap as well. Either PGT or 5.0? either way i will need to do a full rebuild. or swap a something in. I will have to do this on a tight budget. I have a local "Mazda Buddy" that can help out. looking for advice and my first thought was just to rebuild one of the motors maybe swap heads i have priced things out for that route. Why are oil pumps so pricey? anyone had a failure?

this is just my opinion bro...personally if it is going to be a daily on a tight budget, i would rebuild the 2.2 with the 2.0 head. if you want a little extra power there are many things you can do to it...look for nytrdr24's posts. he know his stuff. i say to go with the 2.0 head because it has mechanical lifters, and in my last 2 yrs of experience with my freshly rebuilt 2.2 the hydraulic lifters suck...just my opinion in the head. on a tight budget and short amount of time i wouldn't go with the 5.0 because of all the mods you have to do for it and the price of gas these days. my 2.2 gets around 30mpg. this is just my opinion. of course if you are planing on installing a v8 later, i would do it now and save the money.

Rebuild the 2.2 liter,use the 2.0 head,get a Weber 34 carb,a Pacesetter header,get Paeco in B'ham to build u a mild street cam,use the 2.0 solid lifters,get a Flexalite elec fan or other good brand,get a 40K Accel or other good aftermarket ignition,get a Magna flow cat and a 40 Flowmaster muffler, change all fluids to synthetic including differential,u have spent about 800-1000 bucks and will have a stone cold reliable engine that puts out about 100 to 115 hp (stock is 85) will still get 25-28 mpg.If u want more than that go 5.o Ford or 350 Chevy.ur milegae will go to H---,and so will ur tranny and diff but it will be fun.Lol.BJ

yep, what he said.

first off welcome to the b-scene!!!!

the hocster & maztang are pretty dead on on what they said, but just for what it's worth heres my 0.02.....

i'd stick with the 4 cyl because of gas prices, they aren't ever going to go down, only up....in 20 years a v8 will be like finding a dinosaur except in vehicles what are used for towing or heavy loads, it won't be practical for the common man to have on in his vehicle because the cost of gas will be $10 a gallon or more.....

now with that said, since you have both a 2.0 & 2.2 engines, i'd take the 2.0 block & run the 2.2 head till you can build the 2.2 block & 2.0 head, also i'd do the couple things hocbj said too, header, weber, 2-row rad from an auto tranny'd maz, electric fan, upgraded ignition, fidanza 9.5 lb flywheel.....heres's why.

running the smaller engine with the couple items the hocster listed will put you above 100hp & won't kill your wallet! plus it will give you time to get the funds together to put the other engine together right & not be rushed, or use a cheaper part because it is easier to get........
the 2.0 is the "small block" it's stroke is smaller that the 2.2, so for hp purposes the 2.2 would be the way to go.
as the hocster said, the 2.0 head is also the way to go with the manual lifters, the hyd ones in the 2.2 head are a royal pain in the rump roast!!! not to mention if you wind the engine past 4500 rpm you take a real risk of floating a lifter then your really stuck with the infamous tick-tick in the head....

you can take the 2.2 block, put a set of low comp forged pistons in it from wiseco say in the neighbor hood of 7.5:1, cryo treat the bottom end which will make the rods, crank, & block stronger. bore the block if necessary up to +1 mm over, if not just hone & go with it. use the 2.0 head for the mech lifters, get a custom reground cam from paeco in b'ham (or take the stock cam & send it to comp cams, they can cut a brand new one for you, & who knows maybe market one for the rest of us too), use ferrera valves for the 626 which are +1mm larger intake & exhaust, get the turbo setup off of a 626gt or probe gt (this includes manifold, turbo, & wiring harness), have the head extrude honed (more reliable bench flow on runners than port & polishing plus it will cost about the same amount to extrude hone as it will to pay someone for hours of manual labor to port & polish) & cryo treat it & all of the internals as well so you won't take any chances warping or cracking that new beauty.....
if you build the engine like this, you could run in the neighbor hood of 10-12 psi of boost, & shoud get depending on the cam 150 hp if not more & it will be stone cold reliable.....or if you don't want to run a turbo & like super chargers better camden makes a small supercharger that will fit our trucks too.

you ought to be able to find most of the parts you'll need at these sites..

Ok before you go and install the hyd lifters(2200 head)on the 2.0 block don't. The oil passage in the 2.0 block (its a small round copper looking thing on the top of the block were the head sets) will not allow enough oil to work the hyd lifters in the 2.2 head. And you will get the dreaded tap. You can run a the manual lifters on the 2.2 block but you CAN NOT run the hyd lifters on the 2.0 block. The casting for the heads ARE THE SAME the lifters are the only thing that changed. If you wont to get the truck up and running now build the 2.0 and put the manual lifters on it. then when you get the 2.2 built the way you wont it swap the heads (or you can just swap the lifters from one head to the other but keep the cam jernals with the right head).



Now how much will that cost him I think he said he is on a tight budget. and There is a much easier way of getting 150 HP in these little trucks (and stick with a very good 4 banger) Kia makes a motor that they put in the (im thinking) 96 to 02 Kia sportage run about 140 HP and will bolt up to the stock tranny. From what I have read and understand they run a updated version of the FE2 block (2.2) Plus its EFI if you get the stock intake and computer.

that is why i said use the 2.0 & 2.2 head as a temporary solution to getting the truck running, so he could save up on the tight bugdet to build w/e engine he wants, the suggested setup of running the 2.2 block & 2.0 head was just that only a suggestion, i also gave him a couple options for running a boosted setup if he wished, & yes i didn't mention the kia engine (16v head) that puts out 140 hp stock, because he already has an engine available, why go drop another grand or so to get a kia engine, & then have to buy all the stuff to make the efi work????????

what I was reading was using the 2.0 block and the 2.2 head that will not work. and far as i know the restrictor is not removable. so a 2.0 block and 2.2 head with the Hyd lifters will not work with out the tap. the 2.2 block and 2.0 head will work just fine. And the reason I ask how much it will cost is cuase you already done most of it so you will know about how much it will cost. and can give him the price of what you paid to get it done. So say you spent 3 grand on that would it not be better to just spend the money on a kia motor and wire harness and computer for less (well maybe less). And then have the EFI. You can just find a wrecked kia pull the motor wire harness and computer and have what you need. Im not trying to say theres anything wrong with what anyone has said (well maybe using the 2.2 hyd head on a 2.0 block:) ) but other than that what everyone has said is right on and a good idea.

Has anyone done the KIA to Mazda swap? The one truck I saw it on had hood clearance issues for the injectors,and had to use a MegaSquirt fuel management system which aint cheap.As I recall there were other issues as well.???AM I dreaming?BJ

here u go