sputtering

oh yeah, my fault. haha. closed when cold and open when warm.

i put the new fuel filter in and while i ws under there i found were some one had cut the wires to put an electric fuel pump on abd just twisted the wires back together no tape or any thing i fixed all that and i can tell a big differance the sputtering is not as bad but it still does it as you accelerate i think its flooding its self out any ideas?

if you do not have a fuel pressure regulator than it may be pushing to much fuel to the carb. they make 2 different types of aftermarket electric fuel pumps, high flow and low flow. if i were you i would get either a fuel pressure regulator or a low flow electric fuel pump.

i didn't even think about that i put a pretty nice adjustable regulator for like $30 i think i'll try that

nope it still runs like poo it think maybe its a vacume leak i was messing with my vac. lines and the idle improved a little it only sputters now when you apply the throttle, but it will still only idle for about 5 min. before it dies.

ok today i redid the vac lines and i got the sputtering to quit i drove it for a few blocks and it runs great as long as you dont have to stop. when i come to a stop sign it dies and you have to wait a few min. for it start back. this i hope is my last little engine gremlin and then i can drive it where ever. any ideas on this problem.

is it acting like it isn't getting fuel? why do you have to wait to crank it?

i dont know i really think some guy died an asshole and came back as a mazda and i ended up with it.LOL. once it dies you can hit the key and it will turn over but it won't start but you can wait like 5 min and it will start back. it does the same thing if it's just idling in the driveway it will idle fine for about 5 min and then it will die and you have to wait to start it. i really think its a carb problem of some sort.

You may want to check the needle-idle adjustment, part #89 in the carb diagram. Sticky in the engine section.
That supplies the fuel in idle when the throttle plate is closed with a small opening for air by-pass.
You have to pull the roll pin blocking the needle adjuster.
Some say you don't have to pull out the carb to get this out, but I just pull it out for easier access.
Before you take the adjusting needle out, screw it in and count the number of turns so you can put it back the way it was.
Inspect the spring, washer, seal and needle tip.
Blow some low pressure compressed air (10 psi) into the hole to remove any blockage.
Spray some carb cleaner too into the hole to dissolve any varnish formation.
Best way is to clean and overhaul the carb.
Look at the yellow passages and the needle-idle adjuster in red circle in the diagram below.

ok i'm havin the same problem... it idles, but when you give it gas, it dies...

last night when i was takin one of my girls home, it started sputtering and shit then we pulled off the road and it died altogether. we got it a lil ways further then it died again...

i called up one of my buddies thats in custom creations and he came down, we put heet in the tank, gas treatment, new fuel, and cleaned the points and everything...

then this morning i drove it home ( about 3-5 miles ) and it died when i pulled in the yard. me and dad put a new fuel filter on it and checked all the vacuum lines...

everything looks fine...

Any ideas?

(damn i can't wait until i get my weber...)