Compression test results

damn I'm starting to feel like I have a problem.

I just rebuild my motor completely.

I used new rings, lapped the valve seats and I still only climb to 110psi

its exactly the same each cylinder, about 15 the first stroke then 30 then 90 and then bounces to 110 over the next few strokes.

since it was exactly the same on all four I figured that had to be close to spec but if your getting 180 then damn.

whats a dry or wet compression test? I have always taken the coil wire off and used the starter to turn the engine over.

I don't believe your 110 psi reading.

There are tips to taking a decent compression reading.

1. Remove ALL FOUR spark plugs.

2. Battery must be strong enough to spin the engine readily, at a good speed.

3. You need to open up the carb choke AND FULL THROTTLE all the way before cranking, wire it open if you need to.

4. Spin the engine until the reading doesn't rise any more.

If you've done all that, I suspect your reading/gauge is bad, try a loaner tool from AutoZone.

My own B2200 read 165 psi in each cylinder, and that was when the engine was smoking, before I rebuilt it. I haven't taken readings in the 2.5 years since the rebuild, since it no longer smokes.

Thanks for the help. How do you open the carb choke on our weber's?

I put the charger on the battery when I do it so its pretty strong.

I did spin it until it stopped rising.

ill test my guage at the boiler shop I work at to make sure its good.

One other thing. if I don't warm her up for at least twenty minutes before driving her she has a bad hesitating condition for a few minutes and then everything balances out just fine.

this morning it felt like there was a bad intake leak until I drove it about a mile then no more hesitation. I was thinking I might need to work on the choke setting. what do you think?

I'm assuming that you have no vacuum leaks at the intake manifold or Weber adapters (did you check or sand-flat the adapters to make absolutely straight, and use Permatex or similar sealant?).

Did you set your Weber's idle at operating temperature, and make sure that the choke butterfly was fully open at that point (set to "just" fully open by rotating after loosening the three screws)? Is the choke heater wire plugged into the rear of the alternator?

Because you shouldn't have that early hesitation, need to warm up. Your choke butterfly should be essentially closed (horizontal) when cold and essentially open (vertical) when at operating temperature (10 minutes in).

ok gotcha, make sure the choke plates are wide open and wire the throttle open.

I'm pretty sure I have no vac leaks from anywhere I used a honing stone to make sure the plates were glass flat and clean. I didn't use any sealant but Im pretty sure there not leaking. Ill do a quick check when I do the compression test with some propane.

I checked yesterday and the choke plate stays open about a 1/4 inch when warming up and then flops wide open the first time I hit the accelerator. so I feel like its setup correctly.

I'm going to wait unitl I get the hesitation again and then pull right over and check the choke plate to see if its open or not. its raining today so I'll do the compression test this weekend.

I'll let you know.