junk yard edc

i might be going to get some bolts tomorrow and thinking about getting a check valve, oiler, air filter, water/oil trap. for the oiler does it matter wut psi its rated since its on the suck side (im pretty sure it doesn't)?? and for the oiler if its before the check valve wut should the psi be rated since the only pressure is wut the compressor is putting out. my pressure switch runs 175psi max if that matters.

Your oil/water separator should be rated at a minimum the same as your pressure switch and ideally for you I would run a minimum of 200psi rating. If for some reason your pressure switch fails and you notice the pump still running you at least have a few seconds before

As for the oiler on the intake side, I would guess a 20psi rating would be fine

Also, FYI - talk to someone who has been around a car dancer running hydros. After 90 of constant use running 10,000 + line pressure hydraulic fluid can get very hot. I would think a little compressed air would be just fine for a hydro hose.

thanks for the replies im slowly getting everything together

I think I might just use the stock a/c lines because i dont wanna take a risk od getting the holes tap'd and getting metal shavings in the compressor.

Actually, it is not had to take one apart. The first thing I did when I got moine was to pull the back off so I could lookat at the valves and the cylinders. And once the back is off there should be no issues with cutting and tapping. I was just lazy and opted for the easy way out.

wut kinda oil should i run in it?? and it should be topped off every other day right?

Now that is an interesting topic. When I first inquired the answers ranged from 80W90 gear oil to power steering fluid.

If you are running an oiler on the intake side, I would recommend air motor / air tool oil. It is a good consistancy for the oiler and works will with the pump. Others are running straight weight motor oil (i.e. 20W or 30W). If you are just going to add it to the hole in the top of the compressor then jsut about anything will work. I have not seen much difference between the 80W90 or 10W40 or 20W. It all seems to pump back out pretty quick which is why I will be changing to an oiler.

im getting an oiler just to be on the safe side since i hear that if the run out of oil they will sieze real fast. and then i will prob. run air tool oil. i read something about converting it or something to use grease on the inside instead of oil...?? how would that work but i think the oil would be better for the compressor but the grease wouldn't get pumped out as fast as oil.

^ If you take a Sanden completely apart it will be pretty clear how the grease idea came about. And to be honest, it is why I tried the 80W90 in the first place. BUT, if you ran only grease and it did not get hot enough to flow to the cylinders, .

The better option IMO would be the inline oiler. It seems to have a pretty good track record.