junk yard edc

Lower A/C bracket w/o power steering.


Upper A/C bracket


Back of A/C compressor


Best shot of the tubing at the A/C


Oil-Water separator


Hopefully this covers what you wanted.

so the air filter is just held there with a clamp?? and the suck side doesn't get hot to my understanding just the side that blows out. also i read that some say you need an oiler and others say its not worth it and just fill the pump up every other day...

I will be changing to an oiler. In my case, filling the pump with oil only lasts about 2-3 cycles, then most of the oil is pumped out.

As I understand it, the York compressors made for R12 also have a plug in them, but because they are an up right type compressor the oil stays in the sump instead of being pumped out.

The discharge side of the pump does get warm so you do want some metal tubing between the pump and a rubber/flexible tube. The other thing I have noticed is with the pump only taking 15-30 seconds to pump up the tank, the discharge does not have time to get very hot.

would it be possible to get a pic of the lower bracket mounted or is it kinda hidden?? and thanks for the pics they help tons

also for wiring can i just run my pressure switch to my clutch or do i have to run it through the relay like i did for my viair? and on my SD709 that came of a vw it has 2 wires which is ground and positive? is there any way i could check to find out?

It is covered by the pump. It mounts directly below the upper mount with the 2 bolts.

The pressure switch should be able to pass enough power for the A/C clutch. In my case, the output from the pressure switch is connected to a toggle switch. Up for the EDC or down for the AirZenith.

The positive / negative for the clutch should not matter. The pulley free wheels without power. Hook the wires up to a 12v battery while sitting on a work bench. You will hear the electromagnet and the pulley will not freewheel. Should work with the wires eitherway.

ya im going to put a kill swich between the compressor and the pressure switch. and my vw bracket is way different so i have to cut it up and stuff cuz it was mounted pretty much flush with the block but the mazda bracket is kinda pushed away from the block.

a question that popped into my mind a minute ago is should i have a check valve then the oil/water separator or the other way around?

hmmm I thinking about useing the stock a/c lines and such how did that work out for you immortal?? what kinda fittings did you use. I got some hydro line and didnt no if they would be up to par with the heat capability. Thanks man your feedback is providing alot of un answered questions I had.

i use hydro line on my york and have had no problems with it. the truck is also daily driven and i like playin with switches all the time so it gets a lot of use.

The check valve should be installed after the oil/water separator. Otherwise the oil leaving the compressor could gum it up. I installed mine back at the tank. That way if the line itself leaks, I still will not loose tank pressure.