About my carb problems.

Well, I took the truck to school today. It stalled a few times on the way but not that big of a deal. I then went out for lunch and found getting anywhere near 50mph it started to kind of sputter and could only reach 60mph max. I drove it lots and it was doing pretty well. After school on my way home it didnt stall once and ran well (seemed like it was idling a little high. Half of my drive home is stop and go and the other is around 60mph. During those times at higher speeds it once again maxed at about 60. I was driving in 4th and it was reving at a good rev and still sputtering. In 5th and bascially the same speed it seemed to rev ok as well other then the sputtering.

I definately think this is carb problem as it seems to me its like starving for fuel.

One other thing, after it was warmed up in the morning I was at a red light waiting it had been idling fine of about 3minutes right there and I didn't touch anything and it just died...?

Anything come to mind anyone?

Zac

I had stalling what first appeared to be carb issues on my B2200, at first would stall only after idling like two minutes. Later it got worse. It turned out to be the ignitor and pickup inside the distributor; my mechanic figured it out, said it was contrary to conventional logic. I'm assuming you are getting good fuel flow to the carb, fuel filter clean, etc.

Well, The sending unit in the tank and filter is all brand new but it did sit in old gas for a few months. The little white thing on the passenger wheel well has gas in it but there is also an air bubble. Is that normal? It kind of seems like a fuel issue but that is interesting that you mention that about the distributor. Mine was set wrong for a little while and had quite a few revolutions from the starter with the distributor wrong. Maybe it messed it up?

Zac

revolutions with it in the wrong place will not hurt it sounds like fuel. did you ever check fuel pressure?




-justin

No, how would I do that?

Zac

Well today I didn't drive it because the power steering cap is broken and now I have to order one from Mazda for $25 bucks unless anyone on here can hook me up. I picked up a catalytic converter to put on as well as the 'guaranteed to pass' formula. They will double your money if it doesn't pass. I think its a load of s*** but I figured I might as well see.

So I am still having the stalling/bogging issues. I am going to put the cat on and put the formula in (Which you have to drive at least 250km with it in then refill for the test) and then I guess after that (if it passes) I will have to deal with the stalling.

I'll let you know how it goes, if you have any ideas or know how to check the fuel pressure like Justin said above; please help me out here!

Thanks,
Zac

Ok so I am still having problems I will let you know what the symptoms are to hopefully help.

I checked the choke according to BJs way and it all seems to be working fine.

On start up from cold with no gas the truck starts and idles at just over 2,000 rpm. It then gradually climbs maxing out at about 2,750 rpm.

When I blip the gas when it is like this it drops downto about 600-1000 and sputters and dies. (This is when its cold.) After reving it a bit to warm it up after about 5 minutes it will stay running on its own but will sit there and jump from 600 (really close to dieing) to about 1200 rpm. It did this for a couple minutes and died.

When I restarted it (this time it was finally getting warm) It started and idled at about 1,500 rpm. When I blipped the gas it did NOT drop down, It just revved up and then stopped at about 1,500 again. At this point it will idle fine but only at that same 1,500 rpm.

Any thoughts at all? Really confusing problem I know.

Zac

Zac: I sent you a K and N filter and a working carb heater plate.If u have installed them,did either of them help?The K and N should have leaned out ur dawg a tad and the carb heater would come on on cold mornings and heated the base of ur carb to prevent stalling???Also if it is idling that hi there is a fast idle solenoid on the stock carb.It may be bad or going bad.If it continues in that mode I will send u a complete carb that came off my dawg.I KNOW it is set up right and runs ok.BJ

Hey BJ, I haven't received that yet? Thank you though for sending it. I think the next step might be to replace the carb sadly... When will it end is my question lol.

Is there any way to test the fast idle solenoid?

Zac

Bump.On the passenger side of the carb at the very back there is a gold hex head set screw.That is the idle adjustment screw-the only thing u can adjust on a stock Nikki carb except for the choke.Let the truck sit and run until it gets good and warm and is idling at the 1500 rpm mark.Then back the screw out until the truck is idling at 700-800 rpm and see if that helps.dont blip the throttle until u set the idle speed.BJ