Starting Trouble!!!

I think I will set $200 aside from my taxes and just buy a new ignition coil, plugs,wires, dis cap and rotor, and a distributor. YAYA it might not be the problem but I am just really at that point to were I almost wanna take $500 and just buy new shit that might be the problem because honestly it cant be that much, as far as what it is.

AN UPDATE!!

Well as it turns out I went and bought a new ignition coil because the old one was kinda harsh and I been meaning to, I had a feeling this wasnt gonna fix the problem but hell it was worth a shot.......

New update, I replaced all the fuses in the main fuse block, the ignition regulator fuse was blown replaced it, now everything clicks again like normal. I can hear the starter click like normal.

Some say its the ignition, well if that was the case when I turn the key nothing would work right? I can still turn it all the way to the accessories part and everything clicks but whent rying to start nothing.....

So after looking into this I noticed none of my interior lights work now like nothing on the dash.......

What can it be fellas? The battery still have a great 12+ volts. Its gotta be something tied into the ignition thats not sending it that message saying I got power turn me on, thanks guys

nick

damn bro! mine had a huge electrical problem where i eventually had to just replace all the wiring. seeing as how you just pulled your dash out and put it back in, i would make sure that all the wires are good and still in there respective terminals. and make sure you plugged everything back where it is supossed to be under the dash.

is the engine turning or is it just clicking at the starter? if it is turning you need to make sure you are getting fuel. mine has an electric fuel pump (aftermarket) but it is tied into the ignition.

did you test the battery voltage while trying to crank it? a lot of my problems were batteries having dead cells. they read good on a bench test but when i put a load on it, nothing. let us know man.

OK: (1) Is starter physically spinning the engine when you stry to start it?

(2) When you turn the key to the "on" position do your dashboard lights come on? If not, fix this; if this works, with the key in the "on" position see if there is positive voltage to the positive side of the coil. If not fix this. If you do get voltage there, and coil, distributor, wires, plugs are all correctly installed, go to (3).

(3) To run, once engine is spinning at appropriate speed, an engine must have spark and fuel. Pull off a spark plug wire at the plug, and stick into it a screw of appropriate size to make contact. Put on a cloth glove, hold that wire so screw is about 3/16 inch from engine metal, and have a helper try to start the engine (caution with fan and blades). If ignition system is working, a visible spark will jump as the engine spins. So if you get spark and no starting, go to (4)

(4) Re-connect spark plug wire, prime the carb with a little fuel or starting fluid, and try to start. If the issue is fuel-related, the engine should run for a few seconds (maybe rough, though) when primed.

when I pulled the dash I didnt have to unplug anything so....I will test the battery as I crank it if its a dead cell, but even if i try to jump it off my silverado it still does nothing, when I try to actually start it

noooooooooooooooo, when you turn the key everything just clicks like it normally does when I go to start it, my fuel pump and carb get plenty of gas dont worry.

Seriously, its just when you turn the key it all clicks untill you try to go in the start the truck position, then its like nothing at all.


So therefore I don't see how it can be a dead cell or anything like that because even when I try to jump the truck off another truck it still does nothing.

Sounds like #1 issue is the electrical portion of the ignition switch or its wiring connections, not the battery (jump start attempt most likely rules that out). Invest in a $4 DC test light (auto parts store), easier than using a voltmeter (but that would also work), and trace positive voltage through the ignition switch wires. One of the wires should have current even with the key out. In "run" or "on" position a different wire should have positive voltage as well. Then in the "start" position all three should have voltage, and then the third one should not have current once the key is released.

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So I will jump the starter because thats what everyone is suggesting the problem is.