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Mazda Lowering Static \  Dimensions for a Notch?

Dimensions for a Notch?

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 18
following 7
 
whynotfab   +1y
Are you building the 8 piece type, or a tubing notch? When building your own.. My personal preference would be 2x3x3/16 (or 1/4") if you'd like tubing, probably cheaper than buying sheets of steel, and a lot less welding and IMO a cleaner look. Either way, Robbie posted great info.. it's basically just see how much of a drop you need to lay, and go from there.. Good luck man, post pics!
costa   +1y
yah i was going for 8piece type to be laying on my 205/40R17
robbie   +1y
It would be easier to buy an 8 piece that build one.
fanninator   +1y
costa...im curious on what kinda wheels ya got
blare   +1y
I personally think it would be easier to use a 8 piece on a mazda because they are boxed frames. If you were bagging a ranger, s10, etc I would use a 2x3 3/16 and make a notch.
costa   +1y
yah thats why im planning on going 8piece just was looking for dimensions to make it at work

oh and to answer your question these are centerline rims wrapped in defender's
mullet   +1y
make sure u cut off the tabs of notch after you get the two sides put on.. so you can run things threw the frame rails to clean it up. I have my gas lines running threw my frame rails.. so no wires ove the notch.. it looks soo perdy
costa   +1y
mullet have any pics?
speedster93b   +1y
it would be easier to buy a 8 piece notch, but with nice tools you have access to, it would be much cheaper to build one. don't use anything thinner than 3/16" thick. you can buy 12" wide sheets of flatstock to cut your notches out of. that shouldn't be too expensive. make sure that you will clear your axle and any brackets__ with the inside part of your notch, at the top it's generally the narrowest/smallest part ( //-\\ ) i'd try to match the size of the notch with the size of the frame, you know what i mean, say the frame is 4" tall try to make the notch look like factory, for aesthetics. i like things to flow, so maybe that's just my preference.
i've ran into problems with the frame buckling when my bags were mounted on the lower link bars, so when i redid my rear setup last week, i plated the inside and top of the stock frame with more 3/16 flatstock. my frame was dented in the top and bulged out in the inside. guess you can say i learned the hard way? moral of the story: reenforce your frame where your going to mount your bags. there's no such thing as overkill. also its a good idea to run gussets on the inside of your frame/notch wherever you are going to have a transition between angles, drill and plugweld them. its just smart.
if that was confusing in any way, just ask and someone can probably explain it again in a different, less rambling way. i'm terrible if i can't draw pictures or use my hands

BTW that was supposed to be a pic of a notch up there in ( )