Static Drop Question

with my next truck,i don't want to bag it,but i want to run air shocks all around on it with a small compressor and tank.

For a decent shorter shock use 1987 Izuzu Pup shocks.I am running air shocks from the rear of a ford mustang on my truck.

Have ya got a pic of the Mustang shocks installed on the front?

Nope.Sorry.Forgot to take pics when I got them on the truck.The little air bag sneaks by the bracket for the brake line tho.Any closer and I would not have put them on.

I have a question about the rear-end, wouldn't ride quality be better if you just did a 3" drop block and left the leafs in-tact? How low would that get the rear end? (I'm assuming 3", but what does that look like compared to 3" blocks+monoleaf)

here is the difference. first is crazymikey's mono leaf + 3 in block, second pic mine just with 3 in blocks. it's a pretty big difference. crazymikey, i see what you were telling me in the other post now!

crazymikey mono +3 in

mine with 3 in.

you should chop down the rear bump stops, i have mine cut down so there just a little higher then the U-bolt on my daily, rides great! and i only pulled out one leaf spring cuz the springs were dearched from the guy before me

Neither one of these suspension pics are "Mono Leafed". The top picture is close, that bottom helper spring has to be removed to actually be "Mono Leafed". Not trying to be a smart elic, just figured I would throw that out in case you didn't know.


Also if you remove your front bump stops, top and bottom or just bottom, and you crank your torsion bars down, your most definatly affect your ride quality, my suggestion would be to " Re-Index " your torsion bars. You still want to remove those bumpstops and I recommend both top and bottom but it's up to you, then once you have done that you take your torsion bars completely out, one at a time, and turn the end that goes into your lower control arm just slightly, maybe 2 teeth on the spline, then bolt it back up. Do the same on both sides, trust me, it's a bit more work than just cranking them down the same on both sides, but if you want a truck that rides like a Cadillac instead of a Goat Wagon, this is the only way to go and trust me, you will be just as low.

Below are pictures of mine, which was done by cranking the torsions down all the way, and a friend of mine's that has em re-indexed. I didn't know about this method when I done mine, and since doing mine, I have drug the bars out, otherwise I would redo mine so it rode good instead of like ass. This way you can see there really isn't a big difference in the ride height especially considering his torsions are only down a couple turns and mine are all the way out, and he's running 17's and Im still rocking those ugly ass 14's.

Mine:




His:

Sounds good. My old b2000 had 2 leafs, not sure on the drop blocks' size, but I always hit the bump stop (back then I didn't know how to fix cars, it was my first car, so I bet removing the bump stops would have fixed that problem).

I just bought another B2200 (my 6th B series so far) and this time I'm not just fixing it to sell, I'm going to keep it as a project, and didn't want to have the same problem as my last truck. I'm going to have to look up what "re-indexing" my torsion bars means, I've only read about drop spindles & loosening the bolts (with an alignment obviously). I'll probably leave the leaf springs as is and use a 3 or 4" drop block, then go from there if I want it lower. Bags will have to wait because the truck will need some body work first.

One question on bags that I've always been curious of, is it mandatory to C-notch the frame or is that just so you can get that tucked look when stopped?

I just read more carefully about re-indexing, it doesn't sound much harder than just loosening the bolts, so I'll give'er a shot. Just 2-3 turns each side from where it comes out of the control arm?

I'm picking up the truck this week, I'll make sure to post pictures.