Static Drop Question

I had problems with my axle hitting when i went over bumps, back when I had my back static dropped, if you notch it you wont run into that problem, also flipping the ball joints requires you to have a grinder to grind off part of the mount so you can mount the wheel underneath on the control arm where it was originally mounted ontop, ofcourse I didnt have any suspension I was riding on bump stops in the front, and monoleaf in the back without a notch for the longest, then I got my notch, then bagged the back

Actually that first pic is monoleaf.. Monoleaf only counts the leaf springs, the overload is necessary unless you feel like breaking your one spring, personally I wouldnt recommend removing the overload at all especially if you're not notched either because then the back will be riding on the axle

the mono leaf is going to de qarch alot more then using a full spring pak. On my mazda i did 4 inches of block and mono leaf and notch and it was still slammed the pinion was off but it didnt shove the driveshaft so i drove it wround like that for a long time

You can remove the leafs in the truck just be careful

and if you want it to be super slammed I would run mono leaf just do not do a adjustable suspension on a single leaf. as all the flexing it will snap over time.

Mono - means one, uno, ichi, un, eins,

Your overload spring is part of your leaf pack, when you leave it, you are running a total of ( 2 ) springs. Once again, MONO means only one. As far as removing the overload SPRING, it's much much much safer to remove it if your not notched. Reason being is if your truck is rolling " MONO " leafed, just the one main leaf with a drop block, and your NOT notched, your one leaf has alot less room to flex, and when it can't flex alot, your chances of it breaking is alot less likely. Once your notched, that one leaf can flex a great deal which usually causes the leaf to break under the stress. Granted some break regardless of being notched or not, but the biggest majority of them break due to being flexxed to the extreme.

Once again, this is not directed as being a prick, just have years of experience with static drops ranging from coil front trucks, to torsions, to even struts.

So you have air shocks on the front? do they give you any lift?

did you get to see what that looks like?? blocks alone...

that was good info.
shit


can someone post details and maybe pics of how to reindex????

my bad, I retract the previous statement.... I didn't see the 2nd page...

off topic, but i think i really like your body color matched wheels originalmazdawg!

on topic, my truck is already lowered removing a few leaves (lol, is spelling correct for this type of leaf?), with 2" drop blocks (or sqaure 2" pipe stock...), and torsions just adjusted up front. im going to play around when spring hits and i think i will reindex the front, and cranker down more, and probably add a 3" block in the rear.

? for you guys running 3" drop in back... how slow do you have to go over bumps to not bottom out??? lol, my truck is my DD beater, and i drive it as such, so that still means slow, but fast for a lowered vehicle lets say... lol

and those wheels would be the reason I bought this model, they are original factory wheels.... unfortunately, they are 14" and tires are getting harder and harder to find... they're gonna get replaced with 18" chromies off a QX56.

as for the bottoming out, in the rear, I would bottom out on the bump stops often, until I cut the top half of the rear bump stops off... rides better now. As for the front, I am going to need to replace the t-bolts and bolts before I try to re-index because the bolts have seized, I guess from all the speed bumps kissing they're doing, not to mention the much more harsh driveways with good inclines, lol.