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Mazda Lowering Static \  removed torsions

removed torsions

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 27
following 16
 
90-b22dawg [andrew]   +1y
just so you know, i said they can be removed, didn't suggest you to remove them....
sleepyspeed   +1y


yeah and if his bumps are gone already I think that would really screw stuff up
shilaeli huggr (burdaddy)   +1y
oh... a frame snappin in half aint that bad
aftermathdragr   +1y
trust me i want to get rid of the 5" block cuz i hang the ubolts everywhere but like i said i didnt put them in i got the truck from my cousin, i do still have all the leaf springs so when i remove the 2 center leaves ill put the 4 inchers i have in my shed on there. ive got to lift it to see if i can crank them more, i think he did index them cuz nuttin hangs below the frame. without the bump stop there is about 2 1/2" between the mount and the arm . i wanna drop it at least 2 more inches front and rear cuz mine honestly doesnt sit that low to me. ill post pics n a minute
beatmymini   +1y
get some drop spindles. thats what i have and my truck looks pretty good i think i might crank the torsions but i want to get 4x4 fenders first.

bk2minis   +1y
I use to have a Nissan 720 that i accidentally tore the torsions out of. I ended up rebuilding the front suspension because every thing was bottomed out and I started breaking things. It can be done but from experience I highly DO NOT recommend.

I was young and it was my first mini and i wanted it low. It was very low, I could push a 2x4 as far as I wanted to after the torsions got riped out.

Got to love speed breakers
low down89   +1y
sit it on the ground ftw i dove mine for two weks with nobars in the front loved it now im bagged miss the statc ride
badchicn (rick)   +1y
The only reason to remove your torsion bars is if you bag your truck. The bag can safely support the weight of the truck. You never should remove the bar for a static drop. Mine was static dropped to 3/4" off the ground with the torsions re-indexed, shorty shocks and flipped ball joints and removed bump stops/ brackets. It still rode nice (except when it hit the ground). There are threads on this site about flipping the ball joints and re-indexing the torsions. As far as the rear goes, keep the main leaf and the O/L (short fat one) 3" block max. With this set up and the bump stop removed your axel will be on the frame. You can't get lower than that with out a frame notch. To smooth out the ride add air shocks to the rear and air it up until the axel just comes off the frame. Anyone who removes their torsions is a danger to themselves and others on the road. That same goes for over four inch rear blocks. As you have found out, larger than 4" hang up. Hit one pothole on the freeway and you will be in the hospital.

Short Story 1: I was cruising in my static dropped Mazda and had not raised my gas tank yet. I hit some trash on the road that turned out to be the metal plate that the railroad uses under railraod ties. It was a bout 1" thick and 8"x12" in size. It caught the torsion bar ( I had not learned about re-indexing yet) and ripped it out. When it came out my front end was on the ground and the bar went into my gas tank. Thankfully it was full. Had it been empty, I would not be here today.

Short Story 2: A guy in my truck club was running a 5" block on his Nissan Hardbody. He hit a pothole on the freeway doing 65MPH. The spring plate ripped off the truck and sent the O/L leaf rocketing down the highway. A lady behind him was lucky enough to catch the leaf. It went through the floorboard of her new Mercedes, pinning her foot between the acceletator and the tranny tunnel. she was smart enough to shut off the ignition and coast to a stop.

Short story 3: A buddy of mine in his bagged truck was riding around really low. He hit a train track at about 45 mph. The front end hung up and it bent the frame. Truck is totaled, but the worse part is he smashed his face on the windsheild and bruised his ribs with the steering wheel. He had chest pains the next day and was admitted to the hospital with a bruised heart.


Blah Blah Blah
91extcab   +1y
i agree with the rest of the guys... dont pull the torsion bars... first cut out your bump stops. im running a static drop on my mazda, 3in blocks in the rear, main and o/l springs, trimmed the bump stops in the rear, removed the front bump stops, ball joint flip, and re-indexed the torsion bars. i sit pretty low, but im on 16in z71s with 225/55r16 hankooks. i need a smalled sidewall sized tire to sit lower evenly. there is a slight rake to my truck and i think it looks good... b4 i can get any lower i have to do something about my stock rear framework... project for another day...