Setting drive line angles properly for 4link

Alright well the time has come to setup my rear 4 link and i have read many articles about setting it up but still need to know the proper angles i should be running as well as any other helpful information so i dont mess this up.

Thanks in advance guys

Its really not that difficult but we need to know if you are going to use a stock cardan joint or a double cardan joint on the drive shaft. The angles change depending on the 2.

For a stock style drive shaft the output of the trans and the input of the differential need to be within 1 degree of each other while the suspension is at ride height

for double cardan the differiental can point directly at the output of the transmission.

Ive done it this way for years with great results

Right on ,well i plan on using the factory driveshaft setup where it begins to pivot at the rear cab wall.

you will need one of these to check the angles

wow i'm honestly surprised nobody directed you (or you didn't find on your own with a little research) to the article on airridetalk about setting up this exact thing.

but more specifically this page:

which even more specifically states:
"Multiple Shaft Configurations(which you indicated by saying your driveline starts at your back cab wall, or something to that effect)
You want to cancel out the angles by the time you get to the pinion.

Another note: There is a difference between canceling out angles, and a zero operating angle. If your transmission points down at 3

Thanks for all of the useful information. when setting my rear suspension should i be setting all the drive line/ 4 link angles up at max ride height?

I was taught to always set things up at normal driving or ride height. That will give you your best overall ride.

i dont think that would make sense. I am wanting my rear wheel gap the same as the front when fully aired and in order to acheive that i belive the truck should be fully aired when setting up or fully laid out. Before i can even start to place bag brackets i need to get my 4 link tacked in properly and i still dont fully understand.

I need a true start to finish write up in order to get this done properly. From what steps should be done when inclduing when the notch should be installed.this is the first vehicle i have ever put on air and the first 4 link i have ever set up.

thanks guys, i would not be able to complete this project without the help!

as for the notch. id suggest you put it in before you do the link. and it makes 100% sense that you would set your angles up at your prefered ride height. because thats where you will riding/driving more then you will be laid out or aired up, you wouldn't want to set it up fully aired up because when you lower it to your ride height its going to change the angles and put stress on everything

When I set up 4 links i follow a very simple process.

The Key here is to keep the upper links and lower links as close to parallel to each other as possible. Keeping them level with each other will keep your pinion angle on the axle from changing during suspension travel

Tack weld everything well enough that you can put the suspension through its travel but still be easily removalbe if need be

I NEVER weld even 1 bracket until you have all in place and can test

Step 1: block up the body at ride height; this will be where you drive the rig around town and highway, probably about half way through the travel from being laid out and aired up.

Step 2: center the axle under the truck where you wish it to be; block the axle into place so it can not move from side to side of front to back. Now is the time to align your pinion angle on the axle, prop up the axle on the angle you wish it to be at ride height

Step3: attach your links: I always start with the lower links first, I adjust the links to the same length from bolt eye to bolt eye. I install the loose brackets onto the links both axle side and frame side. I carefully measure from side to side to make sure that have the brackets aligned with each other from side to side and then tack weld into place on the axle, then the frame. One side first them mirror it on the other side,

Step 4: repeat step 3 for the top arms

Step 5: check for interference and binding then weld her up

If you are running triangulated set up then you will not need a trackbar/panard, if you are running parallel links then now is the time to place your trackbar/panard. The longer this bar the better. I usually attach to the inside of the drivers side frame and then across the axle to the passengers side where the upper link is placed. this will keep it close to level as possible and keep from leveraging the axle from side to side as the suspension moves

I have done this on a bunch of off road rigs but never for lowered