Setting drive line angles properly for 4link

ok this is the best i could come up with, with the info you gave..... this is just a starting point for you i guess as you are doing bag on bar, and i did bag on axle, some of the heights and and numbers may need to be changed.... like i said this is just a starting point... but if anything i hope this helps you understand the program a little better...

dang man thats a nice program

Thanks for the great explanation of the program. I am going to try to understand but i dont think i will ever be able to use the program properly because it is honestly way beyond me. how is it set up differently for bag on bar and bag on axle? I hate to ask this but the only way i am going to be able to use the information this program can provide is if some one is completely filling it out for me. I cant even fill out enough information in order for it to display any link placement for me. I do understand how to read the finished link placemenet explanation.

I never did well in school

Hey skrapin, setting up your front and your rear will all fall into place when you do them both. You don't have to do one before the other because both are going to be setup to lay frame. With that said you can do the rear first or vise versa your choice.
The thing I think that is most important when setting up both front and rear is getting the most out of your bag when it is setup meaning that your bag is fully collapsed when laid out then it will take more air pressure for your ride height if not fully collapsed than if it is fully collapsed.
Also setting up your links has nothing to do with your bag on bar or axle setup. You can mock up your bag over axle mounts and then set your links but never fully weld anything until it is cycled with a jack.

If you ever have questions email me at anytime and I will get back to you.
I hope this helps.

My front end lays out nicely but it does not lay frame. I thought you had to Z the front clip in order for a mazda to lay frame/cros member up front. The front of my frame right right ahead of the cab mount is 2.5" off the ground on the factory tires and will probably be about 3" off the ground with the wires. So in order for my rear to lay out the same as the back should i block the rearest flat part of the frame under the cab the same heigh off the ground as the front under the cab? I just dont fully understand how to ensure my rear end with be the same heigh as the front when fully deflated Thanks for the help !

That changes the whole scenario now. The rear frame will never lay with the front frame not laying. Zing the frame for it to lay in the front of mazdas are crazy. I lay frame no problem. Either you can cut your crossmember or move it up because that is what will stop you from complete frame but that is only half inch. I drug that off my first week. How tall are your rims with tires? I am body dropped on 18's with 40 series tires and I am running all the stock suspension and front frame clip.

Yes the truck will not be laying frame. How can i ensure my rear suspension is setup the same heigh as the front? block the rear frame under the cab the same height as the front when fully lowered?

yes lay front completely out and then like you said put blocks under the rear of the frame at the same height and now that will be your collapsed height. Do you ever plan on laying frame though? If you do I would just make the back to lay frame because it is easier to make the front to lay frame than it is to come back in and redo the entire back. Just a few thoughts of mine.

What bags are you running up front?
frame pocket?
custom UCA or LCA?

I am running re6 bags, no pocket
simple torsion bar bag plate setup.

I guess i could of got the front end lower if i had spaced the inside portion of the UCA bag plate upward in order to angle the bag away from the frame so the upper bag plate could be higher.

i guess i disagree on setting up the suspension layed out. the MOST important thing is having your u-joints in sync when you are driving. so you set it up at ride height with the proper pinion angle. at that point you install your bars with the 4link tabs tack welded to the axle tubes. while the axle is on jack stands, and the pinion is correct, you put your lower bars parallel with the ground (still at ride height) and your upper links at the appropriate angle (i put mine so the IC is near the front bumper) and build and tack weld the front tabs into place. ONLY after the tabs are tacked into place will i cycle the suspension to check for binding and set the axle at the fully 'aired down' stage. that's when you make your bag brackets.

it makes no sense to make everything setup at full drop. your pinion could be way off and you'd never know since you are a good 4-6" from ride height!!