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Mazda Lowering Static \  Questions about my drop

Questions about my drop

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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following 7
 
fdugn545   +1y
For sure... Just make sure if u get bigger blocks to watch your u bolts more frequently. Mine have loosened up before... Makes For a sketchy drive!



Good luck bro!

Fred

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xxchromeghostxx   +1y
lol, i say that would damn. and if i do an like how it looks im gonna go with some lock nuts an some loctite on them as they wont be removed for a while.
mazdamobber   +1y
I am in the process of trying to get all of this figured out as well. I am sitting at factory hight on my 86 b2000, and i am wanting to drop it but dont know where to start. I have been told that i can just pull out the load spring, but it will get bouncy. i hear this can drop it any where from a half an inch to an inch and a half depending on how much the leafs flatten out. any suggestions there?
xxchromeghostxx   +1y
Me personally i am not a fan of removing your leaf springs. Taking the overload spring out will basically make you unable to haul cargo as it is what helps the rest of your leafs not bend and give as easy. My suggestion would be to re-index your torsion bars ( very good guide just few small things left out of it) it's on here just search re-index torsion bars and it will come up. as for the back unless you just are not going to haul anything you could remove some leafs yes but the ride would be bouncy as hell, I would just get 3-4 inch drop blocks depending on how low you want to go, also other members have posted once you get to the point of a 4 inch block drop make sure you get an angled block drop or you could run into drivetrain issues.
xxchromeghostxx   +1y
Well, I went outside early this morning to play with my torsion bars, i didn't remove them. They where almost say halfway in on the backside bolt. I measured out @ 26 1/2 from middle of my fender to the ground on each side up front.

Now at the bolt i was a doofus and didn't measure at first settings, no big deal. But i did measure them as i turned them out ( this lowered it for any wishing to know, just tossing it out, each side was the same on the back bolts loosening both lowered it. Now from the point where you see the bolt thread into the frame, and to the bottom piece the bolt is settled against once i was done i measured 3 1/4 inches roughly on each side. and this brought me to a measurement of 25 1/8 inch now on my front.

Now i know this doesn't seem like a lot but now i'm almost tucking and i'm running 195/75/14 all way around. I will get pictures of the new lil drop on the front as well. But honestly it handles so much well better, it isn't as bouncy and jumpy as it was over the railroad tracks near my house, cuts into a corner just a smidge better and well it looks damn sexier lmao! Now i may go remove my trosion bars and index them to a point that i can snug this bolt all the way up and still be dropped to see what it does, not very sure and if anyones reading this a little more info on where i should mark my splines.... Do I mark them before i pull it out of the lca, or is it just on the bracket that matters?


Here is a pic from before, sorry its small, but hopefully it'll show the change inbetween them.
thread post photo


after

thread post photo
mazdamobber   +1y

This might help. Different rig but same thing I think.
xxchromeghostxx   +1y
Thanks Mobber, is roughly the same yes but helped with figuring where i need mark the splines at appreciated.
mazdamobber   +1y
Yep yep
mazdamobber   +1y
so I just went and bought some 3" blocks for the rear and I was wondering if there are some shorter shocks that I can get to help bring the back down a little farther?
chaserjohndoe   +1y
You can get 1,2,3, and 4 from O'rielly's. In the truck/trailer area, $33ish. I settled on 2's not tucking. have 3 1/2 fender cap all the way around with my staggered tire setup.