DadandSonEyes 1989 MAZDA B2600i 4X4 Cab Plus continues HELP

Alex Breaker Earl, (and others)....

We are about ready to finish up the block! A few questions if you could answer/help with. - Thanks
1) On the REAR of the block where the fly wheel goes, I have a NEW main Seal and a aluminum COVER. I was sent the main big rubber seal(about diameter of a soft ball), but did not receive a seal for the cover itself, where the bolts bolt the seal to the block. Can I just use black sealer and squeeze out a beed where the plate bolts to the block?( so I don't have to wait days to receive a seal), will that hold just as well?

2) On the HEAD. We had new valve seals installed, replaced 3 valves with brand new ones, had it baked/cleaned/Magniflux'd. Should we just BOLT IT ON, or is there some kind of "valve Adjustment" required? and how would we do that?

3) I need to probably order some bolts that bolt the OIL PUMP/COVER onto the front of the Block, in all the work, I seem to have a problem locating all those bolts. Where is the best place to get those bolts fast?

4) I ordered a FULL FEL-PRO TOP Engine GASKET KIT. It didn't have any paperwork or diagrams defining each gasket and where they all go. I see some gaskets(diameter of a quarter- metal and rubber O ring)...have NO idea where they go, there are these little grey metal cup things that have tiny dinky light blue spring O rings on them(what are they for?)...I have a black rubber rectangular thick gasket about 2.5 inches wide by 3.5 inches tall, and a few other "mystery" gaskets in the kit. I don't recognize several of them because I don't see where the "old" ones like them are or were. Any hints on these possibly?

5) I still havn't found a POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY , Outside the dealer ( $93.00)

6) more questions continued ..... Do I NEED to use GASKET SEALER with my QUARK & Black Rubber THICK OIL PAN GASKET ? sealer with it? or just slap the gasket on.
7) The Haynes Manual says to torque down the OIL PAN GASKET's pretty tight, won't this break my quark/rubber OIL PAN Gasket? Seams like to much torque! ????

When we put the Head On, am I to presume when I place the Timing Gear on the CAM, line it up as it is supposed to be, timing wise, line for line, #1 Piston @ TDC, etc. (ps. i have aligned balance and timing chains all exactly as spec'd in the book and in photo's and drawings/diagrams I found, and in images from AxelbreakerEarl), how can we make 100% SURE we have NO MISTAKES so when we fire it up the first time and don't bend valves.... ???? we are not professional engine builders and we don't want to damage anything.
THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR Support and Help.

DadandSonEyes

1) The rear main seal cover needs to be cleaned with some brake cleaner (where the rtv silicone will go only, do not get the brake cleaner on the seal!) then apply the rtv and tighten it down. There is no gasket for this cover, that is why you did not receive one.
2) I believe that all of the B2600i trucks came with HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters) if I am not correct (Earl) please correct me. This style of adjuster uses the oil pressure to keep the correct lash ajustment.
3) As for the bolts you should be able to go to an ACE Hardware and get a metric bolt with some washers. They do not have to be OEM. When you go to ACE or something....make sure you know the lengths that you need before you go.
4) The rubber o-ring goes on the metal coolant line that goes into the back of the water pump/oil pump housing. You may not have gotten that far yet. Apply a small amount of veg. oil to the oring before installation. DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL. The metal cup things sound like the valve guide seals. Those were probably replaced when you had you cylinder head replaced. Are there 12 of those cup things. If so that is what they are. I think the other rubber gasket that you are talking about goes on the inside of the valve cover gasket. Alot of times I don't replace that one. But if you have it why not....
Good Luck! BTW.. pictures of the gaskets in ? would help us help you!

Yes you want to use RTV with that oil pan gasket. (I have a thread going on that currenty) And look at the tourqe specs on that again. It is probably INCH pounds not FOOT pounds. Usually you do not tighten any cork gasket down very tight.

And for the timing gear you want to have the lower pulley (harmonic balancer) on TDC mark. Then you want to install the cam and gear at TDC also. That way it will be in time. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER UNTIL THE TIMING GEAR AND CHAIN ARE TIGHT. IF THAT WAS DONE YOU MAY HAVE A INTAKE OR EXHAUST VALVE THAT IS DOWN AND A PISTON MAY COME UP AND HIT IT. CAUSING IT TO BEND. After you get everything back together, slowly "turn over" the engine a complete revolution using the bolt on the harmonic balancer, feeling for a sudden "stop". If a sudden stop it felt, back up, and check you timing again.

Thanks Mazda Man !!!

i found I have to add a whole new thread to add images....on the "quick reply" there is no " browse button" to insert/add images to threads. How are you all adding to exising threads, new images.? If I click on "img" button, it just insers the brackets into the text field with "img", how do I go get the image and have it inserted into this quick reply field?

DadandSonEyes

I literally was just dealing with that. I found that if you go back and edit your reply then you can add images......i dunno why.

Or click the "quote" button and then delete the words.

"The pic upload isn't in the quick reply but if you click the post reply button you will be taken to a form that gives you more posting options.

I know it's not the most user friendly but don't worry I'm working on making it easier."

This is what Baha said. He is a Founder of the site. I think he has done a great job!!!!!!

Also check this out

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