1dayiwill get this thang right

the nuts that held the wire on were 8mm but im pretty sure the whole thing has to come off to expose a threaded hole so I can put the adapter in it then then line for the oil gauge. And what does the thermal switch do?

This is oil sender w/nuts and wire taken off:

The metal wire and brass thing on the end is for water temp and the fittings next to it are for oil pressure, a plastic hose slides into the fittings for oil pressure:

My tach:

Harbor freight had a sale and I had a 15% off coupon. The red box was 375 on sale and is pretty nice for being so cheap, the black rolla round was 100, and I bought a flux welder for 100 for things like exhasut pipes and whatever since I cant afford a mig welder:




I bought some cheap ass welding goggles that are number 10 lens. Is this good enough for flux welding? I wouldnt mind dropping a bill on a nice auto dark helmet, whats a good one?

I supplyed various pics, now u bastages supply me some answers

yes you will need to take the whole oil shit out...dunno what the thermal temp thing is for like i said mine has never been hooked up.......i cant see your pics cause of fire wall again...lol...im outta here going home and going to bed so i can come back in 8 hours and start again

#10 lens is fine for welding.

All I can advise is that you have the most comfortable helmet/goggles, and gloves as possible. It makes a big difference in your technique. Personally I don't like most AutoDark helmets because of the weight, so I stick with the old fashioned plastic or thick cardboard ones. But if you want a nice AutoDark that is really light, check out the Miller line. They run from $150 to $300 depending on which one you buy.

I bought my gear from this guy. Here is the helmet I bought.

At the time he had a package deal for $100 that included some magents, locking pliers, slag hammer/brush, gloves, and the auto darkening helmet.

Despite the, "You get what you pay for." saying, I really scored on it! I have'nt had any problems with any of it!

Ahhhh...you reminded me of an old nightmare. That oil sending unit takes a special socket (at least on my toyota it did) I tried the vice grips and succceded in making it round. To fix it i sawed off and used an "easy out". If it is what it looks like do yourself a favor and buy the 3 dollar socket! BTW good score on the boxes from HF. I have the black one ...it it is super cool for rolling out to the driveway to work.

When I get home I will look, but if I am not mistaken, there is a bung just below the thermostat housing that is used for the water temp sender. You may need an adapter but i think that is the right spot.

i just put my water temp thing in the bottom of the rad where that 2 wire thing was. The, what looks like the original electric gauge sender, under the thermostat housing was too small of a hole so that was a no go. I got the oil sender loose w/vise grips but I didnt take it out yet cause I guess I need to drain the oil first and my driveway is all wet right now so forget that.

water temp, oil pressure, volts:

water temp:

oil sender:


going thru firewall:


Now I need to bleed the brakes. Is the drum bleeder screw inside the drum? I couldnt look today cause 1 of the screws to get the drum cover off is stripped. Does anybody know if vatozone has these and how much?

cool trucks:

Only down side with where you put the water temp sending unit is you will get LOW reading that are not a true indication of engine water temp.

Your gauge will show cold until the thermostat opens, then it will probably jump up to around 150 degrees then probably drop some. Remember, the hot water goes into the top of the radiator, the cooler water goes out the bottom and back into the engine.

The correct spot is where the factory sender was but as you stated the hole is to small for you application. Can only suggest finding another location - try the front side of the intake, in front of the EGR crap. Look for a green plugin that was for the old emission connections.

the green plugs hole is too small as well.