302 swap questions?

^^^THAT WOULD WORK BUT WHAT ABOUT THE RADIATOR DO TO THE BUMPER AND FRAME WIDTH

yea im going to buy that rear end cuz im made of money but like does any one know if the rear end will take the torque and i heard that you have to do some modification to the crossmember but i dont know if anyone can help me out im on a limited budget so nothing insane

I have seen the stock one used for quite a while, but eventually you may need to replace it.
I also have known some idiots up here that had a 427 in an older 80s style toyota, they had a toy stock rear end and they punished that thing , but it wouldnt break. they had to cut the rad support out to get the engine in and did a shitty fiberglass front clip stretch, horrible, the cops eventually took it off the road

Most of us have the tools to build something as nice as that rear end in the pic, we just need parts and sometimes they can be scrounged for cheap,
-average price for a ford 9" at a wrecker, $200
-calipers and rotors to bolt on at a wrecker, $200?
-rear end resealing and gasket kit ( just in case) $100?
-paint, weld, cutting disc, sandblasting, degreasing prep materials etc, $50 at the most
total $550
SPEND $550 TO HAVE REAR END THAT LOOKS LIKE ITS WORTH $1500 - $2000 = CASH WELL SPENT

Maybe some new brake pads too? $60

oh yeah and as for the front well the company that made the conversion kits went away a long time ago , "life is great when you drive a V8" was the slogan, they were eastern canadian. You may get lucky on ebay, all it was is a motor mount kit and a step by step guide, guys who have done it say you dont touch the firewall or inner fenders, or rad support, you do however move the rad core and run an electric fan, I think....lol
Either way when I considered it , it looked like it was gonna go pretty smooth fitment wise , I was gonna build my own headers though, I changed my mind I'm goin FE3 JDM with a turbo

The company that made the kits was called Ultimate Customs based in Ajax, Ontario. I have heard that the old owner Loyd still has all of the templates, jigs, etc and still produces them in limited qantities. I do know of one Ultimate Customs 5.0 swap kit that is brand new in the box. It is not cheap, around $300 (I think, that's what the guys wants). I used this kit and ran problem free for over 8 years. Today, acording to the new owner, the truck runs 12's with over 500 hp still with the Ultimate Customs kit.

You do not need to do any modifications, NO MODIFICATIONS to the engine bay to do the 5.0 swap. The factory rear end is fine, just do not run blocks or mono leafs. For the wiring harness, use a Painless Harness and save yourself time and a s%#t load of frusteration.

there ya go , thanks sierrax I thought I was right about it being an eastern canadian company, I cant tell from the pics though, did ya need a different rad set up?
And good call on the wiring harness, a worthwhile investment, new clean and hassle free.

With good traction, and if ya kept it light , I bet it could be tweaked to a 10 second truck, with 500 at the wheels I think it should be possible if it was light enough and no wheel hop and axle wrap was present with some drag tires.
parallel 4 link drag set up with pan hard bar and adjustable coilovers
Would ya run out of rear end gearibg though?

I ran a stock rad with 2 electric fans. It would run a little hot in traffic in the middle of the summer. I would have to turn the heat on to get it to cool down, lol. I think that I melted a couple of pairs of shoes. Other than extreme heat 90+ outside and dead still traffic for an hour plus, the setup worked great.

I ran a half Mustang, half mazda harness. I had probably 40 hours into the harness and making everything work together. I definatly think it is worth it to just buy the painless, plus it looks much cleaner and it way easier to diagnois any problems. I had to make my own manual for what went where.

When I had it, it was a fairly stock motor (cam, exhaust, throttle body, etc) with I would estimate 260-280 HP at the motor and I would say around 200 at the wheels. It would run around 14's in the quarter. The biggest problem was weight, wheel hop/axle wrap. I can't remember the ratio in the rear but it was a stock Mazda rear end and ratio. I went through three rear ends in the time I had it.

The new owner did a total rebuild with a 150 shot of Nitro. He did a four link with slicks and other than that it is how I sold it to him.

The best things that I can recomend from my experience (Things I did and didn't do) are the following:

1. Good rebuilt tranny with a slap shift. I used a B&M and you would put it sideways through the gears, it was awesome.

2. An aluminum rad with non adjustable temp sensor. The adjustable temp sensors always F up and are just a pain in the ass.

3. F.I. The only way to go. I know alot of you guys love carb setups but just have one F.I. and you'll never go back.

4. Stock Mustang headers. Tuck nicely beside your steering with no mods.

I'll think of more. Lol.

Guys thanks alot for the help and the advice it is defenatly going to help me along in the long run (although not my spelling ) but this all helps me out alot and thanks again

shooot mine is for sale on craigslist now lol. thanks for the help though

I saw that Headmans sold headers for swapping a small block Ford into a Ranger. Does anyone know if these will work on a 88-93 B?