V8 swap questions thread

I put a chevy 350 in the old 87 ext cab I had. No mods what so ever needed for the distributor. I used a 1978 HEI distributor.

Now if you want to talk about cleanrance issues, I had a tight fit between the short shaft water pump pulley and the radiator. I even moved the radiator about 3/4" forward. That gave me a total of about 1/2 to 5/8" from the bolts on the pulley to the fins on the radiator.

I was test fitting my 302 today in my 88'. More pics in my build thread.
Some things I can confim. The mustang motor mounts work perfect. You just have to make the slotted holes bigger on the frame mounts.
A shorter waterpump would do wonders for clearance (the Ford motorsports one).
Parking brake cable may give you issues. I am going to relocate mine on the firewall.
I had to cut out the top middle of my core support. No big deal though, as I can reweld it in later.
I need to figure out how I am going to modify the engine crossmember without making it any lower because I am bagged and dont want it to hold me up.

The F150 oil pan will not work. It touches the steering (barely) but it also hangs below the engine crossmember. This is not acceptable for a bagged truck.

Yeah, having a bagged truck makes for a few more steps.

Short waterpump - yes it does wonders for clearance (1.75" shorter), but means you have to get all the accessories and brackets from a 94-95 Mustang - I cost me a few hundred $ extra, but was worth the cost, as I didn't have to move the rad forward. As it is, the fan (push-style, mounted in front of the rad) just barely fits between the rad and the hood catch support. Moving the rad forward would reduce clearance in front - you'd likely have to put 2 smaller fans in (on either side of the center support).

Re the parking brake - I got some of the heat shield 'blanket' and put it around the cable where it comes through the firewall - haven't had any issues yet. I also put some heat shield on the rubber section of the steering knuckle (near the header) and some around where the fuel and brake lines go down the firewall and under the chassis.

The stock mustang oil pan worked on mine. Again, I'm not bagged, but it seemed to clear in all the right places?

Maybe with the xmember you could make a 'box' to go around the oil pan, then it could be up higher (rather than straight across like stock. If you gusset the corners you should still have pretty good strength in it. That way the xmember would be about the same height off the ground as the oil pan (maybe have it about 1/2" lower, just to protect the oil pan?

cutting out the rad core support would have made putting the engine in easier, that's for sure. I just didn't want to compromise the structural integrity, but thinking about it after, it wouldn't have been hard to put some C channel across and bolt it in (so I could remove it if I needed to take the engine out again (clutch replacement etc.)

I would get the shorter water pump, but now that I've spent all the money on the BBK billet pulleys, new alternator, etc, I don't want to redo the whole belt setup. Lesson learned though!

Well my parking brake cable is actually touching the block, so I want to move it over closer to the drivers side fender. Do you have a link for this heat shield stuff? I would be interested in it.
I am going to cover my headers with exhaust wrap. I know people don't like it because it causes them to rust from the inside out, but I won't be driving this in rain or bad weather much. I want to keep the heat down in the engine bay because I don't have A/C and don't want to melt any airlines to the bags.

Yep, the stock mustang pan is 7.25" deep and the F150 one is about 9.5" deep. I ordered a chrome mustang pan with a new pump and pickup.

I was thinking the same thing about boxing in the oil pan with the xmember. I'll come up with something once I get the engine in there. I am definitely putting something there as it is a critical structural piece.

Here's some pics of the heat shield stuff installed. I picked it up at the local auto parts store (Lordco), but likely they have it at Napa etc.

Here's that section before the heat shield stuff:

And after (far left of the pic)

Top view:


And the steering knuckle (right by the header)


The stuff I used is almost like bubble wrap with reflective silver tape on it, but better than than combination sounds.
Somewhat like this, but what I got isn't tape:
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You can also get heat shield foil tape:
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I have considered putting header wrap on as well. I'm not too concerned about the headers rusting - they're the stock ones from a Mustang, so I should be able to get them pretty easily, and it would definitely keep down the under hood temps.

Thanks for those pics RG. Man, that really makes me rethink the extra work of relocating the brake cable because mine looks pretty much the same way. If you haven't had any problems using the heat shield, I am highly considering doing the same thing.

now since this thread is gettin alot of help i have the same question as befor. what axle are ya'll running? or planning on running? or did ya'll just shorten a 9 inch and put it in?

I'm just using the stock rearend with a custom driveshaft... mustang yoke on one side for the T5 transmission and Mazda end on the side for the Mazda rearend.
I will not be doing 1-wheelie peelies or racing it. If I was going to drive it hard, I would definitely put a different rearend in.
I've read the explorer rears are good, or you can put an RX7 chunk in your Mazda differential.

i keep hearing that it isnt geared right for daily, how is it for you? im just wanting to use it to drive around here, 70 at most incase i have to go to nashville