Weber Question

I would also get a fuel pressure regulator, when I talked to the Weber tech he told me that recently they changed something about the 32/36 and now recommend 2.5psi instead of 3.5psi.

ten four, here's my steps this morning and it resulted in A whole different truck.

motor was cold. held choke open, turned out idle speed screw until it disengaged, then cycled throttle linkage to ensure it seated without touching the speed screw. then i turned the speed screw to the required 1-1/2 turns past engagement.

I then moved down to my idle mixture screw, while keeping the choke held open i turned it all the way in until i felt adequate resistance and then backed it off 2 full turns.

I started the truck with the help of a friend, and I adjusted 1/8" turns at a time on the mixture screw until it ran pretty smooth. Ended up about a 1/2 turn past the original 2 turns.

Then I went to the idle speed as it was a touch high, turned it back 1/4 turn and cycled through the throttle a couple times.

Starts first crank every crank hot or cold now. Also for the sake of my sanity I pulled the dizzy cap, cleaned the points that the rotor button comes in contact with and made sure the graphite center was still in good shape and placed it back on the truck.

Truck runs fine, can't tell if it's rich at all because my fuel cell has a vent filter on top of it that makes the whole behind of the truck smell like fuel (no, i do not have any leaks ).

I did not have to adjust my throttle return spring tension either, once I correctly adjusted everything. I also checked the timing on the truck to ensure I was getting the most bang for my buck and it came out to be pretty well center in the sliding bracket, too far to the firewall or to the radiator resulted in crappier running conditions.

Still plan on getting a fuel press. regulator and a clear filter to put on the truck.


NOW, my big question, after the truck has warmed up (ran down the road 10 miles, came back left it idling) my electric choke was still not opening up all the way, it stays close to 1/4 of the way. The radiator is cool to the touch as well, I'm thinking the truck doesn't have a thermostat and that it isn't allowing the electric choke to heat up and cycle? or is my thinking flawed since the electric choke has a single wire that runs to the alternator and nothing else?

Did your carb adjustments and fuel pressure regulator fix the problem?

The electric choke only is affected by the bi-metallic temperature sensing spring and the voltage in the wire that heats the heater element (that also heats that spring).

Did you check for an operational thermostat? The radiator temperature can vary widely as the outside temperature changes. This time of year I can get home from work and the engine hood is barely warm. In summer, and with AC compressor going, engine stays hot for hours.

I bought a true Weber with a bad float setting and a Ebay Weber with a good float setting. Always check the float before installing. Mine would cut fuel too soon and the bowl would be empty by 4k in second gear. Sometimes I would have to super blip the throttle to get the choke off. But a better spring and regular carb cleaner keep them operating very smoothly.