Black crud in last two head bolts

Alright after some phenomenal weather here in the PNW I've finally been able to take video of Little Red running. It fires up and purrs when cold but after driving it around the block a couple times I can definitely hear the rattling from the engine. I had my finger on/off over the mic so it gets loud in a couple spots, FYI.


and


I'm gonna tear it all apart "again" and this time pull the block and bottom end apart.
Suggestions would be super helpful.

Stop looking, I found it!!!

Unfortunately it sucks bad..... Crank journals #2 and 3 are tore up, the bearings turned into tinfoil.
Can I still have the crank remachined or is it beyond repair? The pistons and rods look alright but the oil had a nice shade of silver at the bottom. Is it worth the work to fix it or should I be on the look out for a new engine?

Pics shortly

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!!

You can get a remachined crank with matched bearings if your is non-repairable. You will know more once the machine shop can inspect it. I would recommend replacing the clutch since you are going to have to take it off to pull your crank. And the rings since you have the pistons out now.

It looks like whoever owned the truck before you ran it low on oil.

Make sure your connecting rods are matched to their original caps when you put it back together

Thanks for the reply Mazdatweaker, I'll get up early and take it in to a shop here locally. It's been sitting for a little over a year but before that I was pretty much daily driving it for about 4 years. I thought I was doing a good job on regular oil changes but maybe not so much....

When I originally pulled the head (the original reason for this post) I saw a lot of "coked" oil toward the rear end of the valve oiling tubes. I thought that some grommets or gaskets had deteriorated but there was no reference in the manual. I cleared that out and blew out the crud in the head but there was probably more in the bottom end. The PO said they had driven it to Alaska and back, then Main and back, it's been used quite a bit. Hopefully I haven't killed it.

When I got it, it was missing 3rd gear. I found another working transmission about a week later and when swapping it, put a new clutch in. I'll post what the shop sais. Thanks again for the reply!

OK, ok. I've put her all back together and she fired up after 3-5 cranks of the engine, she purrs like a kitten!!! I took it for it's first spin yesterday evening after being rebuilt and it was good until I came to a stop off of the freeway and she shut off! I tried starting it again and it would crank reaaaally, really slow, like the battery was drained. It turns out that it'll start when its cooled down but not when hot! I got a new starter, new positive cable and had the battery checked (only a couple months old). What gives?

Some forums say the starter gets heat soaked but it's not under the exhaust and it's brand spankin new as of 10am, others say timing but it fires right up when cold. Brand new positive cable and fully charged battery, so it's getting full power. I pulled the coil wire and it still turned the same (slow). I've never had this issue before, any suggestions? Thanks all!

Some pics of the reground cam, old piston rings, cylinders etc.

Well, looks like i'm having issues uploading pics...
[img]https://flic.kr/p/xrFFCX[/img]

Check alternator output, and have the battery load tested when the engine is warm.

Thanks Sincity! I brought the truck battery and all in to the Oreilys I bought the battery from. Had them test the battery (not on the truck tho') and they said it had a fresh charge and was recently "topped up" (or something similar) meaning the alt is charging it. It cranks the motor over fine after 20-30mins, just not right after I've shut it off when hot. I'll swing by AutoZone and have them give it a shot while it's still in the truck.

Some other forums are saying it could be a bad ground wire that's going bad as it is on the exhaust side of the engine. Thanks again for the advice sin, I'll keep trying!