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Mazda 2.2L \  89 2.2 crank but wont run.

89 2.2 crank but wont run.

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 21
following 6
 
xxstircrazedxx   +1y
Ok, I just picked this truck up for a screaming deal. It's not running at the moment and I can't figure out why, so I turn to ya'll for some help.

89 b2200 2.2l 5 speed 2wd ex-cab .
2 months ago the lady was driving and it stalled out and wouldn't restart. She had it towed home (1/2 mile) and she started throwing parts at it. Here's a list of the things she replaced
Fuel pump
filter
Plugs
wires
Cap
Rotor
Distributor
She also disconnected the exaust after the cat to see if it was plugged (it is not)

It has air fuel and spark, but just won't run.
I took a look at the timing belt and everything is lined up right but the dizzy is not lining up with the 1st plug, its alittle past its mark. Took the dizzy out and made sure the gear was lined up with the shaft and put it back in, still just past the #1 plug. I will take some pictures tomorrow for you if you would like.
Is it normal for it to be like this?

I did try the 12v wire from the battery to The 12v on the coil and still won't run.

Any input will help.
Thanks.
Cusser   +1y
It needs fuel, compression, and spark at the right time.

Use aerosol starting fluid to see if it starts, to rule out that it's a fuel issue. also time the distributor correctly. Have you used an in-line spark tester to confirm spark?

By the way, one would disconnect BEFORE the converter to see if it was plugged.
xxstircrazedxx   +1y
Still won't fire with starting fluid
Not sure if my compression tester is working right as I'm only getting 30psi across the board. 32 with the choke open? Shouldn't it be up near 100?
yes I ment to say the exaust was removed before the cat to see if it was plugged. It's still disconnected at the moment but that wouldn't have anything to do with the compression being so low right?
guam671   +1y


Just double check everything first before you do the hard stuff . Check spark : remove spark plug#1 , now connect the sparkplug to the wire while its out , lay the plug on the body (while still connected to the wire ) , then crank the motor about 2 times . If spark is good you should be able to see the plug sparking , if not , check your coil .
guam671   +1y
Next , check fuel : disconnect the fuel line connected to the carb. and face the hose into a dry and clean container , then crank the engine over 2 times , if fuel comes out your pump is good , if there's no fuel then your pump is bad or your lines are plugged up .

Check carb.: ( with everything connected ) pour a little gas into the carb from the top and then crank it , if it starts , then your carb is dirty .
xxstircrazedxx   +1y
Ok, started from the beginning as if I snapped a timing belt.

Crank: lined up the keyway with the mark on the block, turns out that's not TDC for cylinder 1, TDC puts the keyway about 45 deg to the left of the mark on the block.
So I was thinking someone had the lower end apart and didn't set TDC. I put the piston at TDC and dis regarded the marks.

Cam: not to sure on where it was to start with but I figured the low compression was the piston coming up and one of the valves open early. So I set the cam so at TDC the intake valve was wide open.
In hindsight I think the exhaust valve should have just closed and intake valve would be opening on the down stroke correct?

Distributor: removed it and put back in with the dot on the gear lined up with the mark on the shaft.

So in conclusion I now have 90psi compression across all 4 I'm sorry for my ramblings but I know ill figure this out with a little help.
sincitylocal   +1y
At TDC, both valves should be closed!
Also, when you do a compression test, all spark plugs should be removed, and the throttle should be wide open during cranking.
guam671   +1y
I guess I was a bit late on the reply . Hahahahahaha !
guam671   +1y


What he said . Lol
xxstircrazedxx   +1y
Thanks guys, you are the best! I'll post a update onfriday when I recover from the turkey coma I'm going to be in tomorrow!