imrjbitch
+1y
this is the other spot i saw coolant dripping. in the last picture, its in the middle in the back
this is the other spot i saw coolant dripping. in the last picture, its in the middle in the back
daeman
+1y
With replacing the hoses, auto zone or any of those kind of places should have listings for any of the moulded/pre-shaped hoses. any of the other hoses, usually smaller hoses like the bypass lines, lines that go to the oil cooler where your oil filter is (if fitted to your particular truck) and heater hoses it tends to be easier to buy the appropriate sized hose by the foot. Just measure up roughly how much you need all up and cut your own peices..
Once all your hoses are done. Pressure test the system again, hopefully all is good. Failing that, there are only a few other things that could leak... But most of them are less likely than the hoses.
Inlet manifold gasket, temp sender in the underside of the inlet manifold, head gasket, or a small pin hole or split in the oil cooler are all in a similar area to your problem.
Unfortunately it really is just a process of elimination, but if you replace all your hoses and wear and tear items you shouldn't need to do anything to them for a good few years to come. Once you finally sort your leak, remember to use good quality coolant and swap it out every 2 years... 3 at the most.
Once all your hoses are done. Pressure test the system again, hopefully all is good. Failing that, there are only a few other things that could leak... But most of them are less likely than the hoses.
Inlet manifold gasket, temp sender in the underside of the inlet manifold, head gasket, or a small pin hole or split in the oil cooler are all in a similar area to your problem.
Unfortunately it really is just a process of elimination, but if you replace all your hoses and wear and tear items you shouldn't need to do anything to them for a good few years to come. Once you finally sort your leak, remember to use good quality coolant and swap it out every 2 years... 3 at the most.
Cusser
+1y
OK, I'm on this. Look at my captions onto your photo:
Coming from behind the battery: both of those are electrical wires, see the electrical tape wrapping on those - I only labeled one. Also, I checked on my own engine, my wires also route through the same round support clamp as shown in your photo, so no coolant in those.
Now, where I have labeled coolant bypass: It looks on yours that someone may have used flexible hose instead of the metal coolant lines, and it looks like yours is leaking, see how it's wet. So I suspect that. If that "assembly" isn't leaking, then it must be from above, like the cylinder head gasket or cylinder head.
Coming from behind the battery: both of those are electrical wires, see the electrical tape wrapping on those - I only labeled one. Also, I checked on my own engine, my wires also route through the same round support clamp as shown in your photo, so no coolant in those.
Now, where I have labeled coolant bypass: It looks on yours that someone may have used flexible hose instead of the metal coolant lines, and it looks like yours is leaking, see how it's wet. So I suspect that. If that "assembly" isn't leaking, then it must be from above, like the cylinder head gasket or cylinder head.
imrjbitch
+1y
soo for the smaller lines, are the sizes the same? because the u looping hose, the top is one size, and the bottom is a size bigger. or so i feel because when i had to replace it, it was noticeably harder to put on the bottom than the top. or is it the fact that mine isnt the metal cooling line?
soo for the smaller lines, are the sizes the same? because the u looping hose, the top is one size, and the bottom is a size bigger. or so i feel because when i had to replace it, it was noticeably harder to put on the bottom than the top. or is it the fact that mine isnt the metal cooling line?
Cusser
+1y
Here's the information I gathered in Oct. 2011 when I rebuilt my engine:
The metal pipe part of the bypass coolant circuit is shown here.
Going from left to right in the photo above:
10mm i.d. by-pass hose parallel to cylinder head almost-straight hose going toward the /firewall
Mazda FE1H-15-288 $6 Gates 28409
8mm i.d. by-pass hose to underside of intake manifold Mazda FE87-13-116 $6 or S-shaped Gates 18100 (cut to length, special order O
The metal pipe part of the bypass coolant circuit is shown here.
Going from left to right in the photo above:
10mm i.d. by-pass hose parallel to cylinder head almost-straight hose going toward the /firewall
Mazda FE1H-15-288 $6 Gates 28409
8mm i.d. by-pass hose to underside of intake manifold Mazda FE87-13-116 $6 or S-shaped Gates 18100 (cut to length, special order O
daeman
+1y
Cusser, the amount of info you have stashed away on these trucks is astounding. Everyone here is really lucky your so prepared to help out and share what you know, great work man.
Imjr, keep reading, looking and learning, its what its all about. Good luck mate.
Imjr, keep reading, looking and learning, its what its all about. Good luck mate.
jiffyzx6
+1y
Cusser is a big help, and I'm lucky enough to live 10 minutes from him!... I'll be calling him when I have any problems that's for sure lol
daeman
+1y
Lucky for you jiffy lol, for me to just drop by cussers place is an international round trip.
imrjbitch
+1y
is there a place i can get the metal pipe?
and what site can i order those? at the autozone site, i only see the front most one :/
is there a place i can get the metal pipe?
and what site can i order those? at the autozone site, i only see the front most one :/
Cusser
+1y
Thanks for buttering me up !!! But there are guys here and on MazdaTrucking.com who can run circles around me, such as Axel Breaker Earl, Dan Woodland, SinCityLocal, others.
I only found out about some of this stuff (like the coolant bypass hose path) in Oct. 2011 when I rebuilt mine. In the photo above, I ordered the left and middle hoses from Mazda for the rebuild; I just figured that the original hoses were old, had lasted 23 years, and would be way smart to replace while I already had the cylinder head off. You'll notice that those were only about $6 each from Mazda. That middle hose routes up and under the cylinder head.
For the metal hose assembly (and I'm assuming that yours may not have this, might have a jury-rigged system) you may need to go the used route, or order from the Mazda dealer. I see this as retail $25.47 part FE6615270A see " target="_blank If you need to order new, might as well get the Mazda hoses too.
I used regular made-in-USA stainless steel hose clamps on mine.
I only found out about some of this stuff (like the coolant bypass hose path) in Oct. 2011 when I rebuilt mine. In the photo above, I ordered the left and middle hoses from Mazda for the rebuild; I just figured that the original hoses were old, had lasted 23 years, and would be way smart to replace while I already had the cylinder head off. You'll notice that those were only about $6 each from Mazda. That middle hose routes up and under the cylinder head.
For the metal hose assembly (and I'm assuming that yours may not have this, might have a jury-rigged system) you may need to go the used route, or order from the Mazda dealer. I see this as retail $25.47 part FE6615270A see " target="_blank If you need to order new, might as well get the Mazda hoses too.
I used regular made-in-USA stainless steel hose clamps on mine.