Could really use some help...

Sorry if this is long-winded, but I don't usually do forum posts... a lot of you guys have provide info here or on the samba for most of what I need, but I finally had to create an account because searching forums hasn't really done me much good being not specific. On top of that I've been through a lot of what somewhat relates already and I should let you guys know beforehand what's been done.

Anyway, the truck is a 1992 B2200 (manual, carbureted), the PO converted to a "Weber" (doesn't look like the 32/36 - no power valve; guessing it may be that Solex i've heard of), It was running very rich/extreme lack of power (lucky to get over a hill at 50) and a bit of a tapping sound after half throttle so I ordered an eBay "Weber"... In my naivity, I didn't realize that it was Weber North America. Shortly after, the truck pretty much loses all power and dies on the interstate. The truck wouldn't run at this point unless the timing was ridiculously advanced (38-40 degrees at idle) or the gas was just floored - even then, it was miserable at best. At this point I got it home, wasn't getting fire, replaced the ignitor because I wasn't getting fire for some reason, realized the head gasket was blown (compression test showed 2 cylinders at 120, 2 at 80), noticed a possible crack and ordered a new CNS head and gasket). Truck still wouldn't run. Got a junkyard distributor, wouldn't run, but after putting the new ignitor in the new-to-me distributor and fiddling around a bit the truck finally started, ran fine (but that little tapping was still there and a bit lean) for a couple weeks, and then the exact same scenario happened on the interstate again.

This time, I've already checked the timing belt (replaced with the head), the crank/cam timing appears spot on, the valve clearance was to spec 2 days before it happened ( I double checked for .012 by the book with it hot), cleaned the carb - which at some point I seem to have broken both the power valve diaphragm and the accelerator pump diaphragm - full rebuild kit was put on, all circuits and jets appeared clean, float was set to spec, tried a fuel pressure regulator at one point before I realized that it was the power valve leaking after the first cleaning, checked for a nice blue spark, pulled the o2 sensor to see if I had a plugged catalytic converter, advanced the timing enough to run so that I could check for vacuum leaks, jiggled the key to see if there was a short at the switch... I'm pretty much out of ideas here.

Other than triple checking for intake leaks ( adapter plates were sanded flat and coated with aviation permatex) the only thing I can think of is the fuel pump, but I'm reluctant to spend any more money at this point. I'm hoping one of you guys with more experience on these trucks with a weber installed might be able to save my Ramen money for the rest of the month.

try replacing your spark plugs I just had a brand new and it was bad out of the box and it caused a lot of problems
...

Try starting it on ether. If it runs, you may have a clogged fuel filter, or fuel sock in the tank. The pump could be bad, but checking the other two things will only take time. If you think you need a pump, let me know... I might be able to send one to you.

Sounds kinda similar to what mine was doing before it got parked. I thought it was a carb or fuel problem, which is still a possibility, but on teardown my timing gear on the crankshaft had slop. The key was smashed and keyway on the crank ruined. In the middle of a full rebuild with new carb, so I'll never know for sure what did it

First, thanks guys with the ideas. Even If I already tried whatever is mentioned, I'll be double-checking myself to be sure I did it right if somebody reminds me; I'm sure you all know how easy it is to botch something when you're about to throw a brick at it.

@shortymattman
tried the plugs right after I realized it was fouling them when I got it off the interstate. Of course, it proceeded to foul them until I replaced the carb cover gasket and power valve (it was literally pouring off of the booster venturis). At this point, that is corrected, and from what I can keep it running, the plugs are nice and tan, although I have to either floor it and hold or advance timing to ~35 degrees at idle to even run to read them. I've got a set already and will probably be trying in the morning.

@SinCityLocal
Well, I just bought a filter at ~5$; looked like it could use one anyways. Also dumped some HEET in it since it had just been filled up with regular 89 octane and we had a monsoonish bit of rain around the time, I kind of thought I might have water in the lines or tank. I'm not sure about the sock in the tank, but after this and an hour or so to let it sit I still get the same. Went ahead and bought the pump and may put it on tomorrow (it's 10PM here and in a parking lot, so I'm not big on losing the bolts). EDIT: I tried the ether early on. It's one of those things I just forgot to post. Starts quicker, but runs the same once it's going, think that may have been what blew the cheap chinese diaphram material to begin with - drying it out and all.

@tbrooks I sure hope not. Not sure I understand the state of things; you finished the rebuild successfully and the thing's straightened out? That sure would explain the timing reading correctly (EDIT: but being inaccurate - It felt like the timing may have jumped), except I would expect it to not be so steady under the light if it was flopping around (although I must admit I'm no mechanic - just seems like it would jump a bit if it was slipping around at the crank).

No I'm just finished with all the tear down. It had to be part of my issue though. Before I started this rebuild it had sat for 4 years or so because I could only get it to start when I held the gas to the floor, and then i couldn't keep it running. I just gave up at the time because I had another truck

Hell, I hope you're wrong, but it seems logical. Haven't torn down anything other than a couple of old VW engines, though. If that was the case, correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like a rebuild is in order by the timeyou've pulled the crank on these "F" motors, right?

Yeah, best to get a new crank. This is only the second time I've pulled any motor. The first was for rear main and oil pan seal on a chevy, this is the first time I've tore into a motor. If it is the problem and you just wanna keep it running then you might get someone to weld a new key in, and then clean it up to fit the gear back on.

Is your distributor timing off a tooth? I cant recall if the B2200 distributor has a gear on the end, but it must. I know when timing my rotary motor, I had it retarded a tooth, and jesus it could barely rev under its own power, and almost instant header glowing lol, barely started too, didnt help the the markings on my crank pulley were not correct either. If you are advancing it that far to start, maybe it is just out by 35 degree's, which to me sounds about the distance between teeth on the shaft.

I assume the B2200 motor is the same as the rotary motor, set engine to TDC on front cylinder, align distributor shaft marks with mark on distributor gear (rotary had a dot on gear, and a bump on distributor housing), then carefully slide the distributor down with it in the middle of the adjustment, taking care not to move the gear (easiest to do this with distributor cap removed to see if it moved). Start engine and adjust timing to marks on crankshaft pulley.


Just for giggles, where are you located? Does this have a vacuum hose going to the distributor? Some areas (Canada, California) were all EFI trucks in 1992, and had an electronically advanced distributor, and if yours has that, maybe its doing some weird advance thing without EFI on the truck.